Across India, security at major monuments, airports etc is tight and nowhere more so than here.

It's easy to get confused, especially if it's crowded - so firstly buy your ticket (250Rs, or a $5 bill, for foreigners) at the window. Then shed your bag, cigarettes and mobile phone at the cloakroom in the window behind you, (you can take a camera). Join the queue - ladies and gentlemen separate - and wait your turn, ignoring the touts and 'guides' who'll accost you.

Don't be a muppet like me and stand in line for an hour only to be sent back by the guards. And be prepared to fight to get to the cloakroom window on the way out; it's a bit disorganised.

There are two entrances, east and west

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