It is like the Barbican/Southbank of Delhi. Excellent architecture, a culturally alive place with art galleries, theatres and some old pictures of Delhi. It is good to check out listings to see what's on.

Next to Khan Market, Lodhi Gardens and India International Centre.

www.indiahabitat.org/

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What is common in these two buildings? - Both are designed by Charles Correa, one of India's eminent archiects. Both the buildings are situated in the Connaught Place area. British Council is worth exploring.

British Council Division
British High Commission
17 Kasturba Gandhi Marg
New Delhi 110 001
www.britishcouncil.org/india-regional-new-delhi.htm

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Visit Lalit Kala Akademi. See all the art on the walls. Then head down to Bengali Market to sample some of the best chaat in Delhi. (Chaat is vegetarian street food.) Try either of the Bengali Sweet House or Nathu's Sweets. Both are good and are in healthy competition.

Lalit Kala Akademi
Rabindra Bhawan, Ferozshah Road,
New Delhi 110001
AND
Bengali Market, New Delhi

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If you've ever tried to imagine what Angkor Wat might have looked like when it was first put up, look no further.

Inaugurated as recently as November 2005, every inch of this stunningly constructed complex is packed with carvings. No less than 15,000 artisans spent four years chipping away and the result is exquisite, if a little over the top.

The main temple is surrounded by a mammoth frieze depicting the elephant in mythology and folklore; the interior is a virtuoso display of religious art; and there are fountains and gardens too. And that's just the free part - there's a host of other exhibitions and film shows to keep you occupied for an entire afternoon, at least.

If the time, effort, money and sheer organisational skill that went into this were to go into sorting out the rest of New Delhi, it would become the world's number one city by next week.

Quite a way out to the east, over Nizamuddin bridge. Tuk-tuk drivers might be a bit reluctant to venture this far, so bargain hard, but it shouldn't be more than 100Rs from Connaught Place. Once inside, entry is free though the extra exhibitions cost 125 Rs a pop and the security is tight.

www.akshardham.com

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After the Chishtiyya Shrine in Ajmer this is the most important Muslim shrine in India, attracting thousands of worshippers (Muslim and Hindu) every day. Nizamudin Auliya, a Sufi shaikh of the Chishtiyya order, lived the latter part of his life during the reign of the brutal Sultan Muhammad ibn Tughluq (1325-1351), whom he infuriated by refusing to acknowledge his authority, using a Persian expression which has become a byword in India "Hanuz Dilli dur ast" (Delhi is yet far away).

The shrine also contains the marble tomb of Amir Khusro, the great Persian poet of Delhi, and a number of fine Mughal buildings. On Thursday evenings Qawal (devotional music) is sung, from about 6.00-7.30pm.

Nizamuddin is a Muslim enclave in south Delhi, near the railway station of the same name. Once you enter its narrow alleys (where you can get superb kebabs and other muslim dishes) just follow the stream of people heading for the shrine, which lies down several long and twisting passage-ways. You don't need to take off your shoes until you get to the entrance, despite what the shopkeepers along the route may say. Just look at what the pilgrims are doing

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An hour and a half of Mughal history and intrigue unfolds in fantastic sound inside the sprawling fortress built by Shahjahan (he of the famous Taj Mahal). The lighting adds quality to this beautifully recorded audio drama. Look out for the English version, enjoy the balmy breeze and transport yourself 400 years.

Red Fort, Old Delhi

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Place for cultural programmes, seminars and meetings. Great place to catch a play or an Indian classical music/dance performance for free. There is a notice board in front of the main auditorium for information on events around town. Couple of eateries, but not much to write home about. Weekly information is posted on the IHC webpage.

Near Lodhi Garden, on Lodhi Road. Entrance to car parking from Max Mueller Road side if going in the direction from Lodhi Garden to Nizamuddin.

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If you want to escape the hustle bustle of Delhi, this is a great place to go and maybe buy some artwork as well. Around 20 artists' workshops surround a central grassy courtyard with large trees and places to sit. You can watch the artists at work, or simply enjoy this enclave of peace and quiet, with a tea from the local chaiwallah.

Garhi Studios, Kala Kutir,
East of Kailash
New Delhi 110065

+91 11 2643 2225

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Good bargaining skills are a must for any traveller to India, and Delhi has some great places to practice. Remember that some places have fixed prices, this will usually be posted somewhere in the store.

Sometimes a merchant may try to trick you and say "fixed price", simply turn around and walk out. If he's lying, he'll stop you and offer "special price". In most markets like Jaanphat, and Dilli Hatt you can get great deals. A good method is to offer half of what they want and then from there work your way up slowly if you need to.

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Also known as the Birla Temple, this large and comparatively modern complex was inaugurated by Mahatma Gandhi on condition that it would be open to all castes. Unexpectedly, with its stone grottoes, landscape gardens and slightly kitsch animal sculptures, it's also one of the best children's playgrounds in the city.

West Of Connaught Place, Mandir Marg
www.laxminarayan.blessingsonthenet.com

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Delhi’s public art setting. Its walkways are lined with sculptures and local art students display paintings. Some of India’s hippest rock stars have taken to giving free performances there.

Said-ul-Ajaib, (off MB road), near Saket; Tel: 2653 4401/ 2651 0519; delhitourism.nic.in/fivesenses.html

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