


Mcleod Ganj. Home of the Dalai Lama. The most serene, beautiful, loving and appreciative community I have ever set foot into. This feeling of enchanting serenity encompasses you, like the mountain cloud that swirls around this magical village. Establishments that really stuck out for me are: Jimmy's Italian (best food, and SO cheap), the Underground Cinema, Yong Ling Creche where the kids will perform on demand for any walker by and Chocolate Log cafe...incredible. The likes of Uma Thermen, Natalie Portman and Richard Gere have houses here to escape to. It's utterly enchanting. The only and best word I can think to describe this jewel of a place. It beat Simla anyday.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/McLeod_Ganj
Google map: bit.ly/cbuTeH
This is a cafe run by a Tibetan band called JJI Exile Brothers. It's quaint and plays good music, from Ray Charles to reggae and even Kazakh music. Max, the cook, serves some great momos, thentuk and pancakes.
They have two friendly dogs as well, and an interesting notice board with post-its by travellers from all over the world in various languages. The place is open until 10pm and you might catch the band playing Tibetan music later on in the evening.
Mcleodganj (www.world66.com/asia/southasia/india/himachalpradesh/mcleodganj)
Situated close to the centre of McCleod Ganj, yet far enough away from the backpacker ghetto for you to feel a sense of solitude, this is a very friendly family-run place.
Ghulam will bend over backwards to help you out, and also has a line in Kashmir tours too.
Food isn't so great, though when it's quiet you may be able to negotiate a discount on your immaculate room.
Up the road from the tourist office.
+91 1892 221002 / 220814
info@himalayafunandtours.com
www.himalayafunandtours.com
A voluntary charity in the centre of town. If you're here for a while, teach a bit of English, or help with their ever-precarious IT situation, shorter term there is a nightly drop-in English conversation class, just come along and chat, that's it.
As well as all this, they also have yoga classes, some of the cheapest rooms in town and it's a good place to meet other travellers who aren't in India for the cheap weed.
Lots of good work here with many newly arrived refugees and monks, even if you cannot volunteer, donate something.
Temple Road, opposite Thomas Cook
Send your feedback or queries to been.there@guardian.co.uk
Search Been there
Your tips about Dharamsala