- Dharamsala
- (18)
-
India
This is a cafe run by a Tibetan band called JJI Exile Brothers. It's quaint and plays good music, from Ray Charles to reggae and even Kazakh music. Max, the cook, serves some great momos, thentuk and pancakes.
They have two friendly dogs as well, and an interesting notice board with post-its by travellers from all over the world in various languages. The place is open until 10pm and you might catch the band playing Tibetan music later on in the evening.
Mcleodganj (www.world66.com/asia/southasia/india/himachalpradesh/mcleodganj)
Situated close to the centre of McCleod Ganj, yet far enough away from the backpacker ghetto for you to feel a sense of solitude, this is a very friendly family-run place.
Ghulam will bend over backwards to help you out, and also has a line in Kashmir tours too.
Food isn't so great, though when it's quiet you may be able to negotiate a discount on your immaculate room.
Up the road from the tourist office.
+91 1892 221002 / 220814
info@himalayafunandtours.com
www.himalayafunandtours.com
A voluntary charity in the centre of town. If you're here for a while, teach a bit of English, or help with their ever-precarious IT situation, shorter term there is a nightly drop-in English conversation class, just come along and chat, that's it.
As well as all this, they also have yoga classes, some of the cheapest rooms in town and it's a good place to meet other travellers who aren't in India for the cheap weed.
Lots of good work here with many newly arrived refugees and monks, even if you cannot volunteer, donate something.
Temple Road, opposite Thomas Cook
The best Italian restaurant in the town. Way better than the more established Nick's Italian Kitchen attached to Kungas Guesthouse. The only problem is that this place doesn't benefit from the panoramic views of the former, but the food more than compensates. Run by a friendly Tibetan - try the chilli chicken pasta, it is awesome!
Joglbara Road, towards the main square if walking from Post Office on the right hand side.
It keeps in the fine tradition of Indian bookshops the country over of stocking a wildly varied selection of books in English, Tibetan, Nepalese and Hindi, and some in other European languages.
The English selection is excellent, with a large number of books on Tibetan religion and other issues, on Himalayan wildlife as well as a really decent fiction section.
Modern classics, proper classics and airport novels all sit happily together. Plus you can get second-hand books too. And they'll buy the books back off you too.
Don't talk politics with the old guy behind the counter - I made an off the cuff remark (something non-offensive and conciliatory towards the position he was outlining) and got a book thrown at me for not agreeing enough.
Smack bang in the centre of town
Reuse your water bottles- there's a wee shop just past the sunrise cafe that sells boiled and filtered water that is perfectly drinkable if you've been in the country a few weeks.
They also sell local Tibetan-made handicraft, like books of recycled paper and so on.
near sunrise cafe, down some steps.
A bar and restaurant, food's fair and the beer's the beer. Sells horrible apple wine. Claims Pierce Brosnan eats there. Has a roof top deck as well.
By the bus stand
The restaurant's fine and the accommodation is clean and comfortable but the best bit is the bar.
The cocktails are nice enough and the beer is the same as anywhere. Good fun.
You have the opportunity to meet the Big DL when in Dharamasala if he is in residence. You have to apply a good bit in advance, in person to the Tibetan regional government's offices, you'll need your passport.
We did it six months in advance and kept bugging them by email. Bring your passport with you and one camera a group. There are also public meet and greetings, although these are rare. Just turn up and have your passport with you.
As well as this if you go in February or March- check when it's on as it moves - you can attend his month-long teachings in the main temple. If you are serious about your Tibetan Buddhism there are many opportunities to gain one-on-one teaching with monks and masters. Also the university runs introductory courses in Buddhist philosophy, Tibetan language, history and so on.
Main Temple
Best food I had in the whole of India - not a huge claim considering I was on the strictest of budgets and don't particularly enjoy Indian food.
However, this was really good, served delicious sushi and great spicy dishes. Their home-made lemonade is also good and the atmosphere itself was brilliant, with jazz and blues, and open fire and sitting on logs. Serves meat.
It doesn't have a name that I know of, and is quite off the beaten track, down a flight of stairs, under an apartment block. Go past the internet shop Planet Z, past the nunnery and round the bend in the road as if you were walking down to Dharamasala from McLeod, and it's on your left, down the stair. Ask, someone will guide you.
Delicious wood fired pizza, and naughtily, considering it's within the main temple, it makes great rum chocolate cake.
A nice place to grab a meal after the long walk around the Dalai Lama's residence.
Main temple
Good pasta, nice omelettes and great brownies. Lousy service.
Beautiful views down over the valley and of the mountains above from the sun deck more than make up for it.
Small cafe near the main temple. Large selection of teas- I nearly cried when I found they had Earl Grey. They serve freshly baked muffins and do the very best coffee in town.
Near the Main temple
When you are in a remote village or such travelling as a group, it is a lot better for you all to order the same meal or dish. By doing this, the rural community you are staying with only has to light one fire in order to produce the meal...saving local firewood, reducing CO2, protecting biodiversity, helping control soil erosion, reducing flash flooding, maintaining soil fertility...and you still get your lovely grub!
Anywhere you are staying with a rural community who produce food using firewood...
A monastery where you can avoid the usual hustle and hippies of McLeod, cheap clean accommodation, monks chanting- it's a working monastery. Really friendly and quiet- until the morning Puja kicks off at 6AM. I stayed for 6 months, so it must be good.
388 steps down from McLeod, past OM hotel. You can get a taxi from the bus stand, if you're lazy.
Great, saved my life when I was there, kept me full of good veggie food and disastrously tasty banana and chocolate pancakes. Very friendly and decent accommodation too. Great sunsets.
On a little path down to Dip Tse Chok Ling Monastery.
Great little chai shop in the middle of McLeod, best tea in the whole of India, and a smattering of books to trade. They had some old copies of Private Eye as well. Avoid the meat though, as with most of India.
Orange shop front in the middle of town
Run by the Norbulingka Institute, who provide assistance for newly arrived Tibetan refugees, the Chonor House is on the edge of town. You take your life in your hands scrabbling down the slippery path to the front door, but it’s well worth it. Each room has been decorated by a Tibetan artist, depicting themes of Tibetan life. The hotel is particularly good if you’re travelling alone, as people tend to congregate in the large, cosy TV lounge. It's safe, well maintained, clean and secure, and does the best food in town.
Edge of town. From the centre, head towards the Tsuglagkhang Complex, then take the left hand fork. tel: 21006
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