Situated close to the centre of McCleod Ganj, yet far enough away from the backpacker ghetto for you to feel a sense of solitude, this is a very friendly family-run place.

Ghulam will bend over backwards to help you out, and also has a line in Kashmir tours too.

Food isn't so great, though when it's quiet you may be able to negotiate a discount on your immaculate room.

Up the road from the tourist office.
+91 1892 221002 / 220814
info@himalayafunandtours.com
www.himalayafunandtours.com

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A voluntary charity in the centre of town. If you're here for a while, teach a bit of English, or help with their ever-precarious IT situation, shorter term there is a nightly drop-in English conversation class, just come along and chat, that's it.

As well as all this, they also have yoga classes, some of the cheapest rooms in town and it's a good place to meet other travellers who aren't in India for the cheap weed.

Lots of good work here with many newly arrived refugees and monks, even if you cannot volunteer, donate something.

Temple Road, opposite Thomas Cook

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The restaurant's fine and the accommodation is clean and comfortable but the best bit is the bar.

The cocktails are nice enough and the beer is the same as anywhere. Good fun.

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A monastery where you can avoid the usual hustle and hippies of McLeod, cheap clean accommodation, monks chanting- it's a working monastery. Really friendly and quiet- until the morning Puja kicks off at 6AM. I stayed for 6 months, so it must be good.

388 steps down from McLeod, past OM hotel. You can get a taxi from the bus stand, if you're lazy.

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Great, saved my life when I was there, kept me full of good veggie food and disastrously tasty banana and chocolate pancakes. Very friendly and decent accommodation too. Great sunsets.

On a little path down to Dip Tse Chok Ling Monastery.

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Run by the Norbulingka Institute, who provide assistance for newly arrived Tibetan refugees, the Chonor House is on the edge of town. You take your life in your hands scrabbling down the slippery path to the front door, but it’s well worth it. Each room has been decorated by a Tibetan artist, depicting themes of Tibetan life. The hotel is particularly good if you’re travelling alone, as people tend to congregate in the large, cosy TV lounge. It's safe, well maintained, clean and secure, and does the best food in town.

Edge of town. From the centre, head towards the Tsuglagkhang Complex, then take the left hand fork. tel: 21006

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