The best Italian restaurant in the town. Way better than the more established Nick's Italian Kitchen attached to Kungas Guesthouse. The only problem is that this place doesn't benefit from the panoramic views of the former, but the food more than compensates. Run by a friendly Tibetan - try the chilli chicken pasta, it is awesome!

Joglbara Road, towards the main square if walking from Post Office on the right hand side.

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The restaurant's fine and the accommodation is clean and comfortable but the best bit is the bar.

The cocktails are nice enough and the beer is the same as anywhere. Good fun.

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Best food I had in the whole of India - not a huge claim considering I was on the strictest of budgets and don't particularly enjoy Indian food.

However, this was really good, served delicious sushi and great spicy dishes. Their home-made lemonade is also good and the atmosphere itself was brilliant, with jazz and blues, and open fire and sitting on logs. Serves meat.

It doesn't have a name that I know of, and is quite off the beaten track, down a flight of stairs, under an apartment block. Go past the internet shop Planet Z, past the nunnery and round the bend in the road as if you were walking down to Dharamasala from McLeod, and it's on your left, down the stair. Ask, someone will guide you.

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Delicious wood fired pizza, and naughtily, considering it's within the main temple, it makes great rum chocolate cake.

A nice place to grab a meal after the long walk around the Dalai Lama's residence.

Main temple

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Good pasta, nice omelettes and great brownies. Lousy service.

Beautiful views down over the valley and of the mountains above from the sun deck more than make up for it.

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Small cafe near the main temple. Large selection of teas- I nearly cried when I found they had Earl Grey. They serve freshly baked muffins and do the very best coffee in town.

Near the Main temple

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Run by the Norbulingka Institute, who provide assistance for newly arrived Tibetan refugees, the Chonor House is on the edge of town. You take your life in your hands scrabbling down the slippery path to the front door, but it’s well worth it. Each room has been decorated by a Tibetan artist, depicting themes of Tibetan life. The hotel is particularly good if you’re travelling alone, as people tend to congregate in the large, cosy TV lounge. It's safe, well maintained, clean and secure, and does the best food in town.

Edge of town. From the centre, head towards the Tsuglagkhang Complex, then take the left hand fork. tel: 21006

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