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India
A beautiful beach hut resort on Palolem Beach. Great huts with en suite bathrooms and hot water, amazing beach, lovely staff.
This is the most beautiful beach I have ever been to. A palm tree lined, white sandy beach with beach huts overlooking. A spectacular sunset every evening. Beach shared with fishermen with small boats, crabs, pigs, monkeys and dolphins!
Take train (amazing journey) from Mumbai to Goa. Then by taxi (about £8) or bus (20p) to Palolem. Find a beach hut on arrival (about £5 a night)
I’m just about to take my fifth trip in two years back to sunny beautiful Goa. I absolutely love everything about this place. The people are fantastic..the food..especially in Fiestas Restaurant..The beaches..Well where do I begin...The beach huts Mandrim..Wow what a place to chill and just forget about everything. The Shanti village elephant camp I’m sure to head for again. Or a crocodile trip up the Mandovi River (but be careful with the pasties they give you - ex boyf was very ill after eating these - although he did have 5 of them!)
Goa is my favourite place on earth and hey I gota say I’ve done fair bit of travelling in my time guys .. Peace and love to all. Go see for yourself the uniqueness of this paradise.
Agonda is the definition of tranquility though on certain days, the loneliness has a David Lynch creepiness to it, with big beautiful boulders that mark out one end.
Palolem, the next beach along, has come a long way over the years and the strip is now lined with beach huts from the Cozy Nook to the Bridge and Tunnel. The Dream Catcher (behind the Banyan Tree) is great for morning Yoga or breakfast with the buffalo.
This beach was made famous by Matt Damon in The Bourne Supremacy with his (very sexy) run sequence.
If you follow the NH17 you'll first hit Agonda and eventually hit Palolem
When you hit the needle - like rocks don't stop - follow the path round, this hidden gem is trapped between two hills, one bearing a Jesus graffiti for the purest Catholic within. Just avoid the mud bath.
North of Arambol Beach along the cliffside
The whole south coast of Goa is a string of spectacular beaches and lovely towns, such as Udupi on the Karnataka coast. Inland is the historical site Hampi (railway station at Hospet). The main transport hub for south Goa is Margao (also known as Marmagao) which is called Madgoan by the railway.
Take a train to Hampi or Madgoan but be aware that most trains leave early in the morning (e.g. to Hospet - Hampi at 7 am) so it’s good to stay somewhere close to the station. We found the best place was Kovolam Beach which has lots of guesthouses and restaurants and a nice beach, and it’s cheap.
Some advice: Don't catch the state bus from Goa to Hampi - it's 10 hours of sheer hell.
south Goa
Although "Goa trance" isn't really my music scene, I enjoyed Anjuna immensely. There are a whole lot of freaks out there and most of them travel into Anjuna at some point. There's a good choice of places to eat ranging from Tibetan, Indian and Chinese to Western.
Lots of bars abound on and around the beach areas and there's plenty of cheap accommodation for those on a tight budget.
The local nightclub is pretty impressive, even if it's all bang-gnab trance all night long.
The beach is medium sizee but really nice (just expect a lot of hawkers) and locals are as friendly as the tourists.
This is a really good place to relax on the beach by day and party by night. You also have a lot of options for exlporing the rest of Goa once you get there.
Anjuna beach, north Goa
Palolem is a beautiful beach just about far enough from the excesses of the north. In six weeks the best food we found was The Cheeky Chapati: delicate fresh fish, great veggie food and the bet chilli jam in the world.
On the street running parallel to Palolem Beach.
Situated at the nothernmost point of Goa, Arambol is blessed with a fabulous combination of unspoilt beaches and a relaxed, easygoing vibe.
It's a far cry from the mania of Baga or Calangute and I had one of the most glorious curries of my life at one of its beachside restaurants.
Arabol, north Goa
It is easy to fall in love with Goa. What makes it such a pleasant place to be is the extremely laid-back atmosphere, which combines with long days of sunshine, nice beaches, fascinating 70s-like hippy vibes, and some truly tasty – and cheap – sticky stuff to spice up your otherwise unrewarding cigarette tobacco!
Psychedelic trance parties are very much part of the Goan legend, but in true fact, they’re no longer a pivotal element of the sublimely chilled Goan lifestyle. Surely, during the most popular months, full-moon, half-moon or quarter-moon parties can be found almost every day (the moon is just an excuse, hey), but more and more visitors seem to be there for the quietness – and they’re not disappointed.
Believe me when I say – Goa is the ultimate place where having nothing to do feels sweet. Whichever area you choose to settle down in – Anjuna for the party-loving, Arambol or others for the calm-seeking – rent a 50cc scooter for two or three pounds a day, and you’re free to roam the many attractive little spots the area has to offer.
Palolem in south Goa is a fantastic laid back beach. You can check out how beautiful it is by watching Matt Damon run along it during the opening 10 minutes of the Bourne Supremacy.
There are some great beach huts to rent (average price £7 per day). My favourite has to be Dreamcatcher at the north end run by Jacky and Walter. Jacky is from Liverpool via the asteroid belt while Walter is an ex Kerelan wrestling champion. They make you feel so welcome it feels like home after about 10 minutes.
The food the cook serves up is fresh and tasty (prawns the size of bananas and curries that are far tastier than anything you've had in the UK) while the bar will serve you anything from a lasi to a Kingfisher.
If yoga is your thing, Wayne (yes I know not the most mystical sounding name) does a sunrise (well 9am) class and a sunset one. There's also a variety of massage too.
The place is magical at night as it is lit by candles. You can either sit around the campfire or relax on a daybed by the bar.
If you're going to Goa and want a place that's not commercial, Palolem and Dreamcatcher is where you should head to.
The guidebooks say that the most idyllic beaches are to the south of Goa. This is not necessarily true. We went up to north Goa for a few days and stayed at Aswem beach which is a couple of miles away from Arambol.
Aswem was gorgeously peaceful with hardly anyone on it apart from a few beach huts. After staying in Anjuna is was a complete retreat. This was a few years ago and hopefully it is still the same. Arambol had a very chilled out vibe and not full of hedonist party goers but a lovely atmosphere. There is also a fresh water lake there.
Ok, so it's a fort, but its beach is supposed to be the best in Goa, and its easy to find -just get a bus north, and get out at the end, that's what we did, there's a couple of beach cafes, but its fairly unspoilt. Watch out for the sand, where it's black it burns, also watch out for sea snakes. Don't eat the ice creams, but eat yogurt every day. Don't believe what you're told - if you ask a question, ask at least two other people. Beware, you're in paradise, so even the smallest thing can make you irritated. Oh, and dont get a tattoo, septicaemia in a tropical climate - ugh!
10km from Mapusa
The most relaxing beach in north Goa. Turtles use this beach to lay their eggs so the beach is a protected area and hawkers aren't allowed there (to constantly wave bits of tat in your face like they do at other beaches). There are about three cafes and then a huge expanse of untamed coast - if you're lucky you can walk for half an hour without seeing another soul. You'll need scooters or a car to get to the beach as it's quite out of the way.
If you're coming from the Anjuna area, head for Siolim, take the bridge across the river, then head for the coast.
We're here at the moment and although the Indian government pulled down the majority of beach huts in the palm groves, it is still the most idyllic beach on the Goan coastline. It is far more relaxed than the northern beaches.
A beautiful, small tucked away beach. An hour or so from Margoa. Try the Nine Bar outdoor nightclub or local moped hire for continued beach hopping!
Northern Goa
Far enough from the craziness and tourist haven of northern Goa but enough activities to keep you occupied. Beautiful sand and lots of secret spaces. Hike through the hills to the next beach and discover the amazing food at Home restaurant.
Take a bus from Dabolim or jump in a taxi.
Ok, technically not IN Goa but only one and a half hours by train from Margao and the most amazing and hospitable village. Recommended by every career hippy I met, Gokarna was described to me as the place to go if you want to see what Palolem was like in the sixties. It didn't disappoint. In particular, the picturesque palm fringed Kootlee beach (get a boat from the main beach or walk a steep-ish hill) is a must - even in high season you often get the whole place to yourself. If you can get there at the end of February for the Hindu festival it will be even better.
Get the train from Margao or Chaudi (Canacona on timetables). Travel 3rd class for the friendliest and most entertaining journey.
We stayed at the Cosy Nook on Palolem Beach which was fantastic - stilted
huts right on the beach. Admittedly, ours was by a rubbish heap which seemed to attract cows day and night time...
But the beach was clean and there were loads of good bars and restaurants with fantastic seafood. If a bar wasn't playing Bob Marley, you were treated to either a chilled Ibiza or Café del Mar compilation as you settled down for the evening. The soundtrack should give you an idea of the place!
Palolem Beach is about 2 km west of Chaudi, Canacona District. Cosy Nook is at the northern end of the beach.
Tel: 0832 264 3550
If you are under 30 or wear the now British uniform of shell suit and trainers, head for north Goa. The south (as yet) is a bit more refined, a bit more expensive but, hey it's your hols!
For great food try "Sams Shack" on the beach outside the Holiday Inn, Mobor, or Edwins "Goan Village" in Cavelossim, somewhere new is the Riverview literally on the river behind the Old Anchor. The beach sellers are less hassle here, one of our favourites, Camilla has as she calls it, Paul Mcarries (Macca) autograph.
The best massage on the beach is from Abdul, about £7/£8 for a full hour of relaxation. We are back there in December, but don't come near us if you are in your shellsuit&trainers.
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