This market-cum-entertainment place is a must for all you shopaholics. Here the Anjuna nightlife crowd mixes in a setting with crafts and art; Rajastani dancing, hip hop music and fire-juggling; and cocktails and cappuccinos.

Once you've maxed the credit card (or rather bartered, bashed and slashed your original prices in half), why not head out to Cubana's: for 800 rupees a couple you get an open bar, a good mix of Hindi and hip hop, R'n'B tunes, a view from the hills all lit by the moonlight and a massage to boot.

Midway between Baga and Anjuna, just ask the Tuk Tuk driver to take you to Ingo's

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Although "Goa trance" isn't really my music scene, I enjoyed Anjuna immensely. There are a whole lot of freaks out there and most of them travel into Anjuna at some point. There's a good choice of places to eat ranging from Tibetan, Indian and Chinese to Western.

Lots of bars abound on and around the beach areas and there's plenty of cheap accommodation for those on a tight budget.

The local nightclub is pretty impressive, even if it's all bang-gnab trance all night long.
The beach is medium sizee but really nice (just expect a lot of hawkers) and locals are as friendly as the tourists.

This is a really good place to relax on the beach by day and party by night. You also have a lot of options for exlporing the rest of Goa once you get there.

Anjuna beach, north Goa

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After a long, hot day exploring Panjim with my parents, the Panjim Inn was like a mirage. We had a cold beer on the heritage hotel’s balcony, rested our legs and ended up staying for dinner. Next time, I’ll give the crass beaches a miss and stay at this laid-back, sophisticated hotel instead.

PANJIM INN, E-212, 31st January Road, Fontainhas, Panaji, Goa 403 001
Telephone: 91-832-2226523 / 2227169 / 2228136 / 2435628 FAX: 91-832-2435220
email: panjimin@sancharnet.in
www.panjiminn.com

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We stayed at the Cosy Nook on Palolem Beach which was fantastic - stilted
huts right on the beach. Admittedly, ours was by a rubbish heap which seemed to attract cows day and night time...

But the beach was clean and there were loads of good bars and restaurants with fantastic seafood. If a bar wasn't playing Bob Marley, you were treated to either a chilled Ibiza or Café del Mar compilation as you settled down for the evening. The soundtrack should give you an idea of the place!

Palolem Beach is about 2 km west of Chaudi, Canacona District. Cosy Nook is at the northern end of the beach.
Tel: 0832 264 3550

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If you are under 30 or wear the now British uniform of shell suit and trainers, head for north Goa. The south (as yet) is a bit more refined, a bit more expensive but, hey it's your hols!

For great food try "Sams Shack" on the beach outside the Holiday Inn, Mobor, or Edwins "Goan Village" in Cavelossim, somewhere new is the Riverview literally on the river behind the Old Anchor. The beach sellers are less hassle here, one of our favourites, Camilla has as she calls it, Paul Mcarries (Macca) autograph.

The best massage on the beach is from Abdul, about £7/£8 for a full hour of relaxation. We are back there in December, but don't come near us if you are in your shellsuit&trainers.

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