Jaisalmer is a city west of Rajasthan, India, near the Pakistani border. It lies right in the middle of the Thar Desert. Getting to Jaisalmer may seem a bit of far off, but we took the night train from Jaipur, and arrived in Jaisalmer in the morning, happy and well rested. There is a lot to see in the city itself, but we decided to spare a day for a same day return desert excursion. And it was well worth it. If you have more time, you can stay in the desert for several nights as well, within a group. In the excursion my friend and I took, a jeep picked us up and drove us to the edge of the dunes where camels and guides were waiting for us. It is a proper desert, with sand dunes! And travelling on a camel lets you take in the beautiful shapes and colours surrounding you. The camel ride itself lasts at least two hours and by the end of it, you feel like you have had a good long ride. You can jump down and take photographs as you like. I would have loved to stay overnight in the desert to get the full experience if I had time. Maybe in my next visit! One important bit of advice for desert novices, like I was, is to take warm clothing with you, especially if you will stay overnight. The desert can get very chilly. Jaisalmer itself is an impressive place, also known as the Golden City, because of the way its intricately carved stone buildings reflect the light. There are many moderately priced cheerful hotels to choose from. Pick one with a roof terrace upstairs to have your breakfast while you enjoy the views of the fort, the major attraction of Jaisalmer. My friend and I stayed in Shahi Palace, after a recommendation from another traveller, and we were very pleased.

www.shahipalacehotel.com/
Near SBBJ Bank, Shiv road, Jaisalmer 345001
+91-2992-255920

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Try the Rajasthani thali at Monica for a taste of real Rajasthani food. It's enormous and it's the real thing. Dont miss it!

It's in the town but very close to the fort gate. The restaurant is on the first floor, with excellent views from the terrace.

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Try to avoid staying in a guest house in the fort as the large number of them leads to the large volumes of water used by their guests, which the fort's sewers are unable to deal with and is now undermining the sandstone base on which it is built.

Instead, enjoy the daily walk up to the fort and a cold drink when you get there.

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A budget heritage hotel. Our tour organiser had booked us into Rajasthan's luxury heritage hotels, but we tired a little of the formula. This one, we booked ourselves and were more than happy with. It has a lovely secluded courtyard and an excellent rooftop restaurant where we dined every night. The hotel is small, comfortable and full of character.

Perfectly positioned at the gates to the old town. Address: Goverdhan Chowk, 345 001 Jaisalmer, Rajasthan
price: Rs900-1,500. Suites Rs2,100. Plus 10% tax. Peak season: October-March.

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