Try to avoid staying in a guest house in the fort as the large number of them leads to the large volumes of water used by their guests, which the fort's sewers are unable to deal with and is now undermining the sandstone base on which it is built.

Instead, enjoy the daily walk up to the fort and a cold drink when you get there.

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A budget heritage hotel. Our tour organiser had booked us into Rajasthan's luxury heritage hotels, but we tired a little of the formula. This one, we booked ourselves and were more than happy with. It has a lovely secluded courtyard and an excellent rooftop restaurant where we dined every night. The hotel is small, comfortable and full of character.

Perfectly positioned at the gates to the old town. Address: Goverdhan Chowk, 345 001 Jaisalmer, Rajasthan
price: Rs900-1,500. Suites Rs2,100. Plus 10% tax. Peak season: October-March.

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