Try the Rajasthani thali at Monica for a taste of real Rajasthani food. It's enormous and it's the real thing. Dont miss it!

It's in the town but very close to the fort gate. The restaurant is on the first floor, with excellent views from the terrace.

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A budget heritage hotel. Our tour organiser had booked us into Rajasthan's luxury heritage hotels, but we tired a little of the formula. This one, we booked ourselves and were more than happy with. It has a lovely secluded courtyard and an excellent rooftop restaurant where we dined every night. The hotel is small, comfortable and full of character.

Perfectly positioned at the gates to the old town. Address: Goverdhan Chowk, 345 001 Jaisalmer, Rajasthan
price: Rs900-1,500. Suites Rs2,100. Plus 10% tax. Peak season: October-March.

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