We went to Rajasthan for Christmas with the original intention of getting away from traditional festivities. However, our hosts at Fort Chanwa had trimmed up with a tree and there were cheap crackers and party hats to accompany our Indian Gala Dinner. The whole evening had a lovely sense of things as they used to be; a quality that reminded me of childhood Christmases.
On New Year’s Eve the Maharaja threw a party for the locals, and my boyfriend and I dressed in Rajasthani costume - to the great amusement of the Indian guests who were all in the latest designer gear.
At the end of every evening we drank our nightcap around fire baskets on the lawn, and then watched the bright north star from the rooftop before retiring to bed - what could be more Christmassy than that?

www.fortchanwa.com
No. 1 PWD Road, Jodhpur, 342001‎
+91 291 2432460
Google map: bit.ly/u2MAuZ

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Fort Chanwa, in the village of Luni, 35km from Jodhpur, is an oasis of peace that is far removed from the madding crowds of the Blue City. This restored sandstone fort, owned by the Maharaja Dalip Singhji, is built around connecting courtyards and decorated with intricately carved lattice work. From atop its walls and secret pavilions you can watch village life drift by, trains snaking their way through the surrounding countryside, and glorious sunsets. We travelled into the surrounding bushland by camel cart and wandered down to the train station for a cup of pukka railway chai. In the evenings we sat around fires on the lawns and watched traditional dancing, before stargazing from the rooftop before bed. The staff are charming - as are the Maharaja and his wife.

www.fortchanwa.com
Luni, Distt. Jodhpur, Rajasthan
+91-2931-284216
Google map: bit.ly/vkmkv9

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This small family run hotel, hard by the central market, and the clock tower and city gate, is a small, inexpensive, heritage hotel. It has interesting, traditional, and comfortably furnished rooms, with all modern amenities, around a peaceful inner courtyard, where wifi is available and free. Family run and friendly, it is delightfully finished off with a rooftop terrace restaurant, with spectacular views of the Mehrangarh Fort, illuminated at night. Watch out for crazy Indian wedding processions going past in the streets of the city below!

www.haveliinnpal.com/
Opp. Lake Gulab Sagar, Near Clock Tower, Jodhpur(Raj.) INDIA
+91-291-2612519
Google map: bit.ly/rQxspP

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