India
I cannot praise the place enough. I came here for my birthday treat and it turned out to be an excellent choice.
The food was quite simply the best we've had in Kerala, and that includes posh hotels like the Taj, smart places in Cochin and down and gutsy quick eateries in Ernakalum (we've been here for 18 months, so I feel I can write with some authority).
The room was prettily and simply decorated in white and terracotta. There were fresh flowers on the dressing table and a pristine bathroom. We fell asleep to the sound of the waves breaking on the beach right opposite us.
If you want to get away from it all, in a quiet area with no hotels around, stay here. Eat the best food in Kerala, go for walks on the beach, chat to the locals, visit the fish market and pick out your local catch for dinner, play games on the extensive roof terrace while being served endless fresh cold drinks and tea.
It's an excellent place for tired, burnt out workers looking for tranquility in genuine Keralan surroundings.
My one quibble is that because this is not a family home - the family lives elsewhere - it is not a true homestay. But what's in a label?
www.kuzhupillybeachhouse.com/
Kuzhupilly Beach Road, Ayampilly PO, Ayampilly PO, Kochi (Cochin) 682501, India
+91 484 2531456
The port of Cochin in Kerala is home to one of India's largest communities of Christians. Untroubled by Akbar the Great and his descendents, southern India took its influences from China, Africa and Europe. Vasco da Gama first arrived in Fort Cochin in 1498 and in 1524 returned to die on Christmas Eve. He was buried in the church of St Francis. This refreshingly unfussy building – the first European church to be built in India – still stands amid the banyan trees and cricket greens of Fort Cochin (unlike Vasco da Gama whose remains were removed to Portugal).
Like any UK high street, outlets selling tasteless decorations mushroom all over the city from the end of November. In the Yuletide run-up Cochin buzzes with pre-Christmas shopping euphoria. Several times I have been pushed out of the way by sharp-elbowed nuns searching for the perfect Christmas tree bauble along Broadway in Ernakalum's market area. Unlike the UK it's always a festival atmosphere and it is not uncommon to be offered a high-spirited Keralan welcome and cup of tea in the middle of the scrum.
From the 24th December Fort Cochin ratchets up the party with a seven day carnival. Expect fireworks every night (and sometimes in the day), elephants, dancing, games, food, general revelry and more fireworks!
NOTE: I've been based here for 18 months and have only ever heard it referred to as Cochin by the locals. Nobody uses Kochi except in correspondence.
Fort Cochin (also Fort Kochi) and Ernakalum, Kerala, India
Google map: bit.ly/rYaskG
If you would like a wonderful experience in learning to cook traditional Keralan style food, I recommend that you contact Nimmy Paul. I heard about her via various web searches for cookery classes before I travelled to Kochi and I saw lots of people were already praising her 'at home' cooking experiences as Nimmy has been a professional cookery teacher for over 20 years. We went as a group of three friends to Nimmy's house and she took us slowly through four different dishes, which was then followed by a wonderful meal. Nimmy and her husband welcome you into their home and could not have been more helpful. We were all given a small recipe book to take away and since coming home I've attempted about four different dishes - all wonderful!
www.nimmypaul.com/
Variamparambil, Chakalakal Road, Cochin, 682 015, Kerala, India
+91 484 2314293
Stay at the Old Harbour Hotel or the Malabar House (both are upscale and charming). Sip wine (or a beer) and nosh on small plates at Malabar House's Divine wine bar. Check out Jew Town, taking socks for the synagogue tour, watch the Chinese fishing nets at sunset, and indulge in a Kalari massage at Malabar House. And don't miss the chocolate cake at Kashi Art Cafe on Burgher Street
www.malabarhouse.com;
www.oldharbourhotel.com;
www.kashiartgallery.com
Malabar House:
www.malabarhouse.com/
Kashi Art Cafe:
kashiartgallery.com/
I reached Nagarjuna Ayurvedic Centre (Kalady, Kochi, Kerala) in a sad state. After working on one of my books and writing several articles for a well known journal, I was physically exhausted and mentally stressed. I had heard and read of the excellent Nagarjuna Ayurvedic Centre and placed myself in their hands.
I was not disappointed. The ambience and the atmosphere were superb. The centre is situated in a beautiful environment at a river bank and very close to nature. The weather was also magnificent.
The ayurvedic team, led by Dr. K. Krishnan Namboodiri, were professionals to the core, warm and caring. They immediately diagnosed my condition and prescribed suitable treatment for my battered body and tired mind. I had several enjoyable sessions and every part of my body received expert attention –my head, legs, shoulders, tummy, etc were oiled and massaged among other things - I felt totally rejuvenated.
I left as a new man – physically and mentally. I resolved to return a year later for more of the same. In comparison to some over-priced Ayurvedic places, the Nagarjuna Ayurvedic Centre in Kalady is eminently affordable. The food is good, hygiene is of very high standard, services very friendly and as for the Ayurvedic treatment, it is in a class of its own. I unhesitatingly recommend Nagarjuna Ayurvedic Centre.
Nagarjuna Ayurvedic Centre LTD.
Okkal Post, Kalady, Kerala, India 683550
Telephone: +91-484-2463350.
Website: www.nagarjun.com
Forget fashionable yoga retreats, the Surya Thejus Advaitha Yoga Centre is both affordable and authentic, with not a chakra-aligning celebrity in sight.
Tucked away in a serene green corner of Kerala, with forests and the peaceful river Poorna to inspire your inner guru, the centre is in Kalady, a shrine to Adi Sankara, one of India’s foremost philosophers.
The secluded setting feels refreshingly ‘real’ rather than a boutique bolt-hole, with only 3 rooms, each clean and comfortable, and Yoga classes taught by expert teachers.
It was a great place to de-stress and unwind - the teachers were kind and helpful to wobbly beginners, and even my skeptical partner was chanting by the end.
We left feeling several stone lighter, thanks to healthy (but delicious) food served up in the Kerala Vegetarian Canteen, and at around £24 a night, you don’t pay through the teeth for Zen-like calm.
A cafe at the back of a small art gallery that has a different breakfast and lunch option every day, loads of homemade cakes and the best coffee in India.
Burgher St, Fort Cochin
I went to Kerala and took part in a Reach and Teach program with Yearoutindia. I volunteered for three weeks at a school in Adimali teaching Art and English, and helped the school prepare for Independence Day celebrations. All the local schools join in celebrating Independence Day, taking part in inter-school competitions and a show of strength in 2km march around the town, holding placards pledging allegiance to India and shouting Independence chants. It was quite a surprise for the locals to see a British citizen taking part in the celebrations and the head teacher called me in the evening to say the school was on the local news!
My experience of Kerala was fantastic, it has the most verdant flora and fauna, vibrant culture and the people I met were so welcoming. Besides many teaching and renovation projects at schools that really need help and support, Yearoutindia gives you the opportunity to be involved with the local communities and make a real difference to the lives of people in rural South India. They also run link school projects with schools in UK and looking to so the same with school in France and USA.
The coordinators and staff really go out of their way make sure volunteers have a great experience and that they really make a positive and direct contribution to the people and communities they work with. They only take on limited number of volunteers (usually 2-3) per project site, ensuring a personal commitment to the projects and a unique individual experience.
Yearoutindia is also a non-profit organisation who don’t advertise in print media, all their ex-volunteers who work on community development projects, conservation and environmental work, teaching in schools and orphanages act as volunteer coordinators back in their own country. A true volunteer experience run by volunteers themselves!
www.yearoutindia.com
info@yearoutindia.com
ruth@yearoutindia.com
They are state-run and organised for us an excellent bespoke itinerary complete with driver for the whole visit - airport and back to airport - for a very reasonable amount of money.
They were always prompt and efficient in all our communications as well as helpful and authoritative. I would wholeheartedly recommend them. Using them and an internet airfare can provide an excellent, reasonably priced holiday in this beautiful state.
It's a beautiful old building with loads of character. The owners are really friendly and helpful and the rooms attractive and comfortable (although not luxurious)- a really great value place to stay. It's worth paying the extra for air conditioning.
Lilly Street, Fort Cochin, Cochin. www.chiramelhomestay.com/
GO, it's wonderful!! Fly to Kochi or Trivandrum - both are great to visit anyway, especially the fascinating town of Kochi. But best of all, take a journey by boat through the backwaters and drop in on village life. It's magical. And you'll never get better food!
The golden sandy beaches of Arabian Sea, the prawn farms and the backwaters as a background, away from the regular road traffic and the crowded tourist spots, repose you to the most fraternal, tranquil and serene environment.
The Kuruvillas are always pleased to welcome guests to their family beach-house tucked in the coconut groves of a unique Kerala village, Kuzhupilly.
Overlooking the Arabian sea with a fabulous view of uninterrupted coastline and serene backwaters, Kuzhupilly Beach House is the place to live in, for people who would love to experience nature, backwaters, beaches, ample seafood, traditional Kerala village life, and friendly local people.
An ideal place to compose your music, write poetry, spend your honeymoon or just relax while you rejuvenate yourself with a desired treatment or just chill!
A rooftop which gives a 360˚ angelic view. Hidden in the brow of coconut trees this place is gifted to give you a very unique view of the beautiful beach and backwaters form the same point – Divine!
IX/ UA/ 204A
Kuzhupilly beach road, Ayampilly. P.o, Ernakulam. 682501
Kerala, India
Home +91-484-2531456
Kuruvilla +91-9447107028
Anish +91-9447667780
www.cochinn.com
info@cochinn.com
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