http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/ Welcome to Been there. Your tips on the places you know - that you love, live in or have just visited - are what make this guide. http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34659 If you turn right off the ferry follow the chessboard of tiny roads through the village. Catch the flash of a kingfisher, butterflies the size of your hand and egrets daintily perching on buffalo under the shady tropical trees. You may feel like you are walking through people's gardens, but no-one will mind and they'll probably invite you in for a tea if you stop and chat. Under the bridge on the eastern shore of the island lives an extended family of Harijans (Untouchables) from Mysore. They make their meagre living by fishing from saucer-shaped woven coracles.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34659 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34658 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34658 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34656 But Thrissur is an interesting day trip for anyone staying in Kochi at any time of the year. It's a pleasant introduction to Keralan town life: not too busy, dusty or crowded, and small enough to walk round in a day. The two hundred-year-old Shakthan Thampuran Palace is now an elegant archaeological museum set on a hill among painstakingly landscaped gardens. The building was closed for refurbishment at the time of my visit, scheduled to re-open 1st April 2012 (but don't hold your breath). Thrissur is also famous for its magnificent churches, their colourful stucco façades peeking over the town's roads in every direction.
Don't be afraid to join the workers for some roadside food. But watch the amount of sugar they add to the delicious fruit cocktails, Keralans have a sweet tooth.
Get there by train from Ernakulam Junction (any visit to India is not complete without a train journey) which lasts around one and half hours, and costs a mere 28 INR for a one-way ticket.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34656 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34636 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34636 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34633 As with all restaurants in India, get there early so you can pick up the food while it's still fresh and before the best dishes run out.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34633 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34632 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34632 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34631 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34631 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34630 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/34630 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33767
Walk the length of Market Street, from Hospital Street to Banerji Road, and explore the lanes that run off this busy market area. There are no touts, and you won't be hassled to buy a carpet or 'antique'. The fella coming up and asking your name simply wants to welcome you to Kerala and talk to a foreigner, especially an English speaker. You'll find Jew Street, Muslim Street and Convent Road within a prayer of each other, illustrating the easy religious integration which characterises this enlightened state.

Turn right at the end of Market Street on to Banerji Road and pop into the Hotel Saravana Bhavan for the best vegetable thali in Kochi. (Like many restaurants in India it is called a 'hotel' when all it does is serve food, which can be a bit misleading as the hotels are usually called hotels too.) The non A/C section is packed with local workers every day. For less than a £1 they'll keep filling your plate or 'ela' (Malayalam for banana leaf) until you burst. There's an A/C section for posh people.

After lunch head a little further up Banerji Road and turn onto MG Road. Seemati has a fantastic textile section full of silks, satins and cottons for a tenth of the price you would pay in the UK. Chennai silks is great for sarees, salwaars and mens' clothes, they even have on-site tailors.

If you fancy a beer the best local bar is the Bar Oberoi on MG Road. It's not as dark and desperate as most of the diamond-signed bars all over town, and cleaner than most. You'll be the only non-Indian in there, and if you're a woman you'll definitely be the only one. Between 5 and 6 most days the proprietor lights a series of incense sticks, each more smoky than the last, finishing with full-on frankincense bowls.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33767 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33345
The food was quite simply the best we've had in Kerala, and that includes posh hotels like the Taj, smart places in Cochin and down and gutsy quick eateries in Ernakalum (we've been here for 18 months, so I feel I can write with some authority).

The room was prettily and simply decorated in white and terracotta. There were fresh flowers on the dressing table and a pristine bathroom. We fell asleep to the sound of the waves breaking on the beach right opposite us.

If you want to get away from it all, in a quiet area with no hotels around, stay here. Eat the best food in Kerala, go for walks on the beach, chat to the locals, visit the fish market and pick out your local catch for dinner, play games on the extensive roof terrace while being served endless fresh cold drinks and tea.

It's an excellent place for tired, burnt out workers looking for tranquility in genuine Keralan surroundings.

My one quibble is that because this is not a family home - the family lives elsewhere - it is not a true homestay. But what's in a label?]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33345 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33247 Like any UK high street, outlets selling tasteless decorations mushroom all over the city from the end of November. In the Yuletide run-up Cochin buzzes with pre-Christmas shopping euphoria. Several times I have been pushed out of the way by sharp-elbowed nuns searching for the perfect Christmas tree bauble along Broadway in Ernakalum's market area. Unlike the UK it's always a festival atmosphere and it is not uncommon to be offered a high-spirited Keralan welcome and cup of tea in the middle of the scrum.
From the 24th December Fort Cochin ratchets up the party with a seven day carnival. Expect fireworks every night (and sometimes in the day), elephants, dancing, games, food, general revelry and more fireworks!
NOTE: I've been based here for 18 months and have only ever heard it referred to as Cochin by the locals. Nobody uses Kochi except in correspondence.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/33247 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/28999 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/28999 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/26152 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/26152 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23502
I was not disappointed. The ambience and the atmosphere were superb. The centre is situated in a beautiful environment at a river bank and very close to nature. The weather was also magnificent.

The ayurvedic team, led by Dr. K. Krishnan Namboodiri, were professionals to the core, warm and caring. They immediately diagnosed my condition and prescribed suitable treatment for my battered body and tired mind. I had several enjoyable sessions and every part of my body received expert attention –my head, legs, shoulders, tummy, etc were oiled and massaged among other things - I felt totally rejuvenated.

I left as a new man – physically and mentally. I resolved to return a year later for more of the same. In comparison to some over-priced Ayurvedic places, the Nagarjuna Ayurvedic Centre in Kalady is eminently affordable. The food is good, hygiene is of very high standard, services very friendly and as for the Ayurvedic treatment, it is in a class of its own. I unhesitatingly recommend Nagarjuna Ayurvedic Centre.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/23502 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/22162
Tucked away in a serene green corner of Kerala, with forests and the peaceful river Poorna to inspire your inner guru, the centre is in Kalady, a shrine to Adi Sankara, one of India’s foremost philosophers.

The secluded setting feels refreshingly ‘real’ rather than a boutique bolt-hole, with only 3 rooms, each clean and comfortable, and Yoga classes taught by expert teachers.

It was a great place to de-stress and unwind - the teachers were kind and helpful to wobbly beginners, and even my skeptical partner was chanting by the end.

We left feeling several stone lighter, thanks to healthy (but delicious) food served up in the Kerala Vegetarian Canteen, and at around £24 a night, you don’t pay through the teeth for Zen-like calm.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/22162 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/20974 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/20974 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/18615
My experience of Kerala was fantastic, it has the most verdant flora and fauna, vibrant culture and the people I met were so welcoming. Besides many teaching and renovation projects at schools that really need help and support, Yearoutindia gives you the opportunity to be involved with the local communities and make a real difference to the lives of people in rural South India. They also run link school projects with schools in UK and looking to so the same with school in France and USA.

The coordinators and staff really go out of their way make sure volunteers have a great experience and that they really make a positive and direct contribution to the people and communities they work with. They only take on limited number of volunteers (usually 2-3) per project site, ensuring a personal commitment to the projects and a unique individual experience.

Yearoutindia is also a non-profit organisation who don’t advertise in print media, all their ex-volunteers who work on community development projects, conservation and environmental work, teaching in schools and orphanages act as volunteer coordinators back in their own country. A true volunteer experience run by volunteers themselves!]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/18615 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/17696
They were always prompt and efficient in all our communications as well as helpful and authoritative. I would wholeheartedly recommend them. Using them and an internet airfare can provide an excellent, reasonably priced holiday in this beautiful state.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/17696 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16990 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/16990 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/11027 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/11027