Instead of trekking accompanied by 50 ponies plus handlers, guides and cooks (which somewhat destroys the peace and quiet of the Himalayas), stay in local homestays instead. It means that you only need a small bag to carry clothes etc, as all food plus water refills and bedding is provided. We didn't even have a guide but used a good map and compass, and it was so much better to be able to go where we wanted, when we wanted, rather than being constrained by a guide's plan. The homestays were fantastic and a great way to meet local people and eat local food. We even learnt a bit of Ladakhi and helped people learn some more English. The company which started the homestay is also a charity which works with villagers to preserve the local environment and wildlife, so you're actually doing some good too. The whole thing felt like a really valid exchange, with everyone benefitting.

Himalayan Homestays - several of the tour operators in Leh will help you book this, but you have to ask as they would prefer to sell you an expensive guided trek (of course). You can buy a map of the homestays, with suggested routes (choice of three) for 150Rs.

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Leh is a truly beautiful and exceptional place. Don't be put off by its isolation from the rest of India. You can make a two-day road trip at the right time of year or a flight from Delhi gets you there in an hour. Since the road was still blocked with snow I was forced to choose the latter option.

Flying so low over the Himalayas is breathtaking enough but it's arriving at an altitude of 3,500m that gives your lungs the real workout. No matter how much you want to get out into this stunning landscape you must rest if you fly in. And I’m not talking about a few hours kip - you may need several days of relative inactivity before you start to feel acclimatised.

If you are looking to make a trekking trip wait until your body is feeling ready. Don’t book it too early and find yourself not ready - you may well pay a penalty fee. On the other hand if you book a trek and feel obliged to go ahead when you’re not ready you may well put yourself in danger. Remember that you are likely to go higher than Leh when you walk so even if you are starting to feel fine going up further too quickly could well cause problems.

Leh is in Ladakh at the top of the India near the Tibetan border.

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This is a 6,100m high trekking peak close to Leh. Hire a local guide and horses to make the approach a bit easier. Fantastic views to the Karakoram, including K2.

Leh, Ladakh

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This is one of the first guest houses in Leh and it is one of the few in the old town just underneath the palace with stunning views from a wonderful roof terrace.

Needless to say that the owners are wounderful friendly people and are more than happy to organise an unforgettable trekking experience.

Rooms vary from budget to nice double with bath and views but numbers of rooms are limited and booking well ahead is a must.

Enjoy!!

Michael

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