Travel light to Mumbai, because Asia’s second largest city provides the rest. Start at the Gateway of India, constructed in 1911 to commemorate the first visit of a British royal to India; turn to view its grand neighbour, the Taj Mahal Hotel, built in 1903 by the Parsi industrialist JN Tata.

Walk from here to Calabra Causeway for a cool Kingfisher beer at Leopold’s. This cafe is a contemporary of the Taj and for a few rupees you can eat Indian, Chinese or, as a relief from spicy food, beans on toast.

The roads in Mumbai have few line markings and at times it feels as though the entire population of 16 million are out on the streets. The taxis vie with cars, motorcycles, bikes and pedestrians; jumping lanes, hands permanently on the horn and abruptly slowing to avoid the many potholes.

It is hot and dusty so find a 'Cool Blue Cab' (air-conditioned). Fortunately, ours came with Akbar - he calmly took control and became our guide and friend for our stay. An 'Akbar' can show you the off-licence not selling counterfeit beer and areas off the usual tourist routes; a south Indian market at Maunga set in leafy streets around three Hindu temples; the spectacular Kanheri Caves (109 temples hewn out of the rock by Buddhist monks) in the Sangi Gandhi Naional Park; the ‘Kamat’ Colaba for a breakfast of Idli (rice cake) and black tea; Balwas New Marine Lines for Dal Makhani and fresh lime soda.