- Mumbai
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India
As a tourist, I got a lot of hassle in India from rickshaw drivers, shopkeepers, hotel owners and general touts. The best thing I ever did was to learn to say 'I don't want it', 'Go away' and 'That's too expensive' in Hindi. It makes people stop hassling you faster than anything you could say in English, possibly because it shows that you're not a brand-new arrival to India. Also good is to learn 'my name is...' which gets a great response from local people rather than just replying in English.
Get a phrase book or (better) get someone to teach you when you arrive.
If you spill something down your suit on the first day, then Burlington’s in the mall at the Taj Mahal Hotel will make you a very reasonable tailor-made suit overnight.
Taj Mahal Hotel www.tajhotels.com
Indigo Colaba: +91 22 5636 8999
The new place for doing business is the Bandra Kurla Complex; the Grand Hyatt is five minutes away and is very good, with an Italian restaurant that serves excellent pizza. The area’s a bit grungy but the hotel has its own ten-acre plot and once inside it has everything you’d want – including faxes in the rooms and Wi-Fi.
There’s a restaurant called Indigo Colaba, which is just adjacent to the business district of Nairman Point, and it serves very good European food with pan-Asian influences and has a lovely ambience. It’s very popular, so get your hotel to book you a table.
Because the traffic is so bad in Mumbai, if you're there on business it is a good idea to have your meetings and do your entertaining at the hotel you are staying at, rather than having to traipse around town. Most of the big international hotels have suites and meeting rooms and good restaurants attached to them.
In India, when you hire a car you automatically get a driver included - which is a very good idea as I personally would not recommend driving in such a hectic town, especially if you're used to northern European/US traffic.
This is an ideal way to get from meeting to meeting, as the driver is at your disposal all day and will come and go as you require. It also works out to be a cheaper alternative to booking individual taxis, especially if your company has a set rate with a particular hire car company.
Major hire car companies such as Hertz, Avis, etc.
Be careful at Mumbai airport because porters will load your bags on to trolleys the minute you have your back turned and then charge you for the privilege. If you do want a porter it is always best to negotiate the price beforehand.
Sunday night is a good time to walk along the beach. A lot of local families etc. go every week before sunset.
Main beach
For the best, fresh Indian food, try Mahet's Lunch Home on the Juhu Road. You can choose your own (huge) live crab and have it cooked in whatever way you like. All their fresh fish is fantastic. It's also very reasonably priced. You'll find it 100-200 yards from the JW Marriott, Juhu as you turn left out of the hotel.
Juhu Road, Juhu, Mumbai
If you will be using your mobile a lot to speak to the UK, either to make or receive calls, then consider buying a local sim card. Remember you will either need an unlocked phone or to buy a local phone as well. Making calls to the UK is in the order of 10p per minute, local calls and texts are a lot less. The difference between these costs and roaming charges soon pays back the approx £12 cost of the SIM. Even if you buy a cheap phone in India then you start pay back after about an hour of calls. Watch out for Indian roaming charges because mobile rates are by the state you are in. So if you move from Mumbai to, say Delhi, you get into roaming charges on your Indian number. Still, though, very much cheaper than roaming with your UK number! Check out the calling abroad rates on your UK mobile - they are probably a lot less than roaming abroad so forward your UK mobile to the Indian number. You can usually do this via an internet connection. Finally, remember to divert both your personal and business mobiles. If you are not going to buy an Indian SIM forward your personal mobile to your business phone so that calls into your personal phone cost you at your contract rate.
If you're a member of a club back in London, check to see if it has a reciprocal with the Royal Bombay Yacht Club - if not, try blagging! Food and bar is very cheap - really nice views of the bay and it's got a 'last days of the Raj' feel to it.
If you're just in Mumbai for the day, passing through, stay at the Leela. It's a good five-star hotel two minutes from the international airport. Mumbai is a fantastic city but traffic can be a problem so if you don't have to journey into her, don't.
I've stayed in the Taj Hotel and even on business expenses, the non-Indian spirit prices are totally disproportionate to the food/other drinks. Find a local off license and buy Honey Bee Indian brandy. Not only is it cheap and delicious, it also stops any bad tummies - four trips to India and I can vouch for this. It also has the most fabulous retro label which I hope they never change!
A blast from the British past - this Parsi cafe in the heart of Bombay's fort area not only serves excellent and cheap Parsi food, but is a relic from the days of the Raj. It caters to the needs of the office workers at lunchtime and tends to be very busy. No tourists to be seen here! The traditional patra ni macchi (a fish dish) is a must. For mains I had the lamb dhansak (not quite the same as what we get in Britain!) which is a delicious dish of lamb flavoured with apricots. Don't expect five-star service! This is a no frills place for the locals which serves up food that you'll struggle to find anywhere else in the world! Recommended for all you foodies out there.
Off Horniman circle, Opp State Bank, Fort, Bombay 400 023. It's a bit hard to find, ask the cabbie to take you to the front of the Bombay Stock exchange (BSE), right opp the entrance to the BSE you will see a lane called Green Lane - you'll find Jimmy Boys at the bottom of Green Lane. tel - (022) 2270 0880/ 2266 2503
If you're travelling in India it's a good idea to wear khadi. This is the name for hand-spun and hand-woven cotton. It was a symbol of Gandhi's independence movement. But more importantly for the visitor it's the most comfortable thing you can wear in this country when the temperature rises.
Ready-made khadi shirts and trousers (kurta/pyjama) can be purchased at branches of KVIC/Khadi Bhavan (found in most cities).
Or better still, take the time to buy a length of cloth and get your clothes tailored. Anybody you ask will be able to recommend a good tailor.
It's a fun thing for the family to do and will keep everybody cool, comfortable and happy in the heat.
Wear tailored khadi in India and you'll all feel much more at home.
Italian restaurant based in Mumbai. It's the best Italian food in India if not in Asia.
Juhu, across the road from the Marriott
This tip can be used for any airport. When you arrive find the price of the taxi at the departure hall. Then go to the arrivals hall and grab a taxi that is setting down but not allowed to pick up and you will get the best deal possible on the taxi fare.
Indian flights are very cheap and it's tempting. But if you have the time and the patience, Indian trains reward like no other journey.
The Indian train is a travelling village in itself. You will be sold to constantly. Some things you will want - chai in the moring, samosa in the evening - and some things you will not.
Despite the bad image of India as a hard-sell place, there's no obligation to buy and the seller will move on if you are not interested. The good bit is, you can do all your shopping in one journey, from bajee to clothing.
The trains are more than a kilometre long (which is truely awesome in itself), and are a lifeline to many Indians. And far more eco-friendly than flying.
A bit on the expensive side but well worth waiting for this treat. The restaurant serves Konkan food, which is cuisine from the west coast of India. They do really good fish and spicy creamy curries.
We had fish wrapped in banana leaf and prawn curry. The dosas are great too. We backpacked around the whole of India and spent our last night here. Fantastic!
Taj President, Colaba (near World Trade Centre, Mumbai).
Go to the Gate of India and buy a return ticket (Rs120).
Spend a good hour relaxing on the ferry (an extra rs 10 to sit on top deck).
At Elephanta Island, take the train (rs 10 return) along the jetty, pay a couple of rs to get in and face the walk - a sheer cliff face with steps cut into it and wall-to-wall stalls.
The first cafe (on the left) going up the hill is realy good.
Great fun, it was my first full day in India.
Watch out for the (thieving) monkeys - they jump out and grab whatever takes their fancy, bags, crisps and water bottles,
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