http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/ Welcome to Been there. Your tips on the places you know - that you love, live in or have just visited - are what make this guide. http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/37450 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/37450 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/37393 There are only a few accommodation options and my husband, 1.5 year old daughter and myself stayed in the Palm Villa - one of the villas at Marari Villas resort. The villa is right on the beach which is very rare, it is beautifully decorated with traditional Indian furniture and the staff were incredibly friendly and helpful. We were surrounded with 24-hour care and immediate response to all our "needs and wants". Privately cooked and serviced food on the open terrace was delicious and it was so relaxing to soak up the sun on the loungers in the sandy garden and cool off with a swim in the warm sea.
Marari beach and Marari Villas became my personal stunning discovery. Next time I come to India I will only go to this place.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/37393 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/37389 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/37389 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/37249 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/37249 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/37124 Our trip was organized by Greener Pastures.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/37124 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/37123 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/37123 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/37017 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/37017 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/37010 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/37010 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/37009 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/37009 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/36665 Sithara is not the prettiest, nor the best appointed homestay. It is set behind high walls and a metal gate, down an alley off the parade ground. There is no swimming pool. There are no smiling white-shirted waiters catering to your every whim, no lounging areas or bar. But Sithara has Harry and Mercy. And Harry and his lovely wife are what makes it such a special place. For Sithara is a REAL homestay, not a heritage home or bijou boutique hotel masquerading as a homestay. Sithara is where Harry and Mercy live.
The welcome is enthusiastic and real. Harry and Mercy want you to enjoy your stay and will do everything to make your trip a success. Harry knows everyone and can arrange anything you like. Booking Sithara by email was easy, Harry's answers were prompt and helpful.
There are four rooms: one downstairs, right next to where Harry and Mercy sleep, “specifically for western girls, singly or in pairs” so that they know Harry is right next door in case of an emergency (he told me this prior to the Delhi rape case); two double a/c rooms upstairs; and a non a/c (but the fans are enormous and all you need) double family room with two inter-connecting bedrooms, a balcony and a separate entrance. The immaculate garden (of which Harry is rightly proud) houses a bird cage containing some amiable, if loud, parakeets, mango trees, banana trees and plenty of exotic flowers. Food is extra, but Harry will cook whatever you like for breakfast and find you drinks and snacks throughout the day (I gorged myself on unsweetened fresh pineapple juice).
Don't use this lovely little place as just somewhere to sleep, sit under the shade of the balcony with Harry and get to know him and Mercy a bit before heading out to see the sights. If you are lucky, Mercy's sister "Baby" might join you too.
Just off Lilley Road in central Fort Cochin, the location is second to none.
If you want to share the home of a knowledgeable, upbeat and charming Keralan family, stay at Sithara.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/36665 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/36659 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/36659 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/36654 Then it all went a bit bonkers: one of the waiters had brought some tunes which he added to an mp3 player belonging to one of the guests and an instant party was born. The doors were barred and we had a lock-in until 2.30am. An impromptu Gangnam Style dancefest to a sound system was so distorted we each danced in the rain to our own rhythm (oh yes, it rained like the monsoon and we all thanked our own gods for bringing some sorely needed water to Kerala). The chef danced on the tables, the waiters and owner's family danced in the rain, my friends danced in the fountain and I danced with a chair on my head.
The next day we passed the guys and had a big hug. It seems that after seven years of being open they had never had a party before this new year's eve. Good times, and hopefully the first of many more.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/36654 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/36653 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/36653 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/36652 The family provided a car and driver, which we shared with some friends. It was good value and gave us the freedom to explore at our own pace. With wild elephant and tiger an ever-present threat to local communities at the moment, getting around on foot can be difficult and dangerous. A tiger had been spotted 300m from Varnum the previous week (they are a huge problem at the moment) and wild elephant came trampled the fields while we were there.
Varnum is run by Beena, who oversees the cooking, and her husband Varghese, by day a policeman. Their children were knowledgeable and friendly, going out of their way to get to know us. Young teenage daughter Varna took us on a tour of the garden and farm, pointing out ginger and fruit plantations, rubber and teak tree groves, coffee bushes and plenty more fruit trees, birds and wildlife. Dawn, their son, was at home from university for the Christmas holidays and spent all his free time talking to us. Just like their charming children, Varghese and Beena revel in meeting new people and are warm and genuine hosts.
A final word on the food. Possibly the best in India? After nearly three years of living in Kerala and travelling round the rest of the country, I am convinced you can't beat Keralan cooking. When it's cooked at home from the freshest possible ingredients by someone who really knows their stuff you know you're onto a winner.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/36652 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/36651 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/36651 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/36605 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/36605 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/36568 After we had navigated away from the network of shady-green villages, we found ourselves as far removed from a traditional Christmas Day as we had thought possible. We could smell the tangy scent of the salty sea, feel the heavy humidity seeping through our bodies, and the best Christmas present of all, could feel the Indian Ocean lapping small waves against our tiny white-washed wooden boat.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/36568 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/36371 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/36371 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/36351 Uthsavams also present a great business opportunity for local traders and there are usual an array of local delicacies for sale in the stalls around the temple. As the uthsavam events are held outside the santum sanctorum, they are open (and free) to everyone, irrespective of religion. Temple festival season kicks off in mid-November and goes on until February. One of the bigger festivals in Cochin is the Ernakulam Shiva Temple uthsavam held in January every year (www.ernakulathappan.org). Details of other temple festivals can be had from local Kerala tourism offices.]]> http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/36351 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/36334 http://www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/tips/36334