At Manikarnika Ghat, visitors can watch Hindus burn their dead by the Ganges - an interesting and memorable experience.
However, today I nearly fell victim to a potential scammer. Since non-relatives are, understandably, not allowed near the burning pyres, they can view the process from a building nearby, which I was led to by some locals. When I entered a man said he was running a hospice and that the old people within had come there to die. He then told me quite a lot about the cremation ceremonies being carried out below.
As I left he asked for a donation for the “hospice”, gesturing to the old women sitting on the floor. When I didn’t give money, he got angry and told me I was a bad person and that I shouldn’t come back. However, after checking with two other locals I learnt that this man was not in fact running a hospice, and that he intended to pocket most of the money. Be warned!

Manikarnika Ghat, Varanasi, Uttar Pradesh, India

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Phulwari, nestled behind a 19th Century gate close to Godaulia crossing, is popular with travellers - but beware - on a recent trip (June 2008) I got very ill after eating there, necessitating a long course of antibiotics.

Much better for pizza and Middle Eastern food is Hayat close to Assi ghat.

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A rather wonderful family-run guest house, two minutes from the Assi ghats.

Clean and comfortable rooms (some with a balcony), hot water on demand and fresh home-cooked food.

Very, very friendly staff who will make you most welcome. Dr V.N Tripathi offers (advanced and beginners) yoga, meditation and Ayurveda lessons to guests.

I read the recommendations on the website and can vouch for them!

Maruti Guest House
B-1/86A Assi
Varanasi 221005

Tel: 0542-2312261

Website:
www.marutiguesthouse.com

Email:
marutiguesthouse@yahoo.co.in

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Every evening around 7 o'clock there is an incredible Hindu ceremony to the gods through the five elements, which is performed by sadhus. The ceremony takes place on the main ghats along the River Ganges in the centre of Varanasi.

The walk to the main ghats through the markets is a great experience too. The main ghats are around the Dasaswamedh ghat, which is one of the oldest and holiest ghats. Here you can take a rowing boat on to the Ganges to catch the ceremony from the river. It's incredible to watch the ceremony and it was a really memorable experience of India.

It's a great way of getting in touch with the spiritual side of India in the oldest and one of the holiest cities in this amazing country.

Take a cycle rickshaw to the top of the open-air street market and walk down towards the river to find the Dasaswamedh ghat.

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