Phulwari, nestled behind a 19th Century gate close to Godaulia crossing, is popular with travellers - but beware - on a recent trip (June 2008) I got very ill after eating there, necessitating a long course of antibiotics.

Much better for pizza and Middle Eastern food is Hayat close to Assi ghat.

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A rather wonderful family-run guest house, two minutes from the Assi ghats.

Clean and comfortable rooms (some with a balcony), hot water on demand and fresh home-cooked food.

Very, very friendly staff who will make you most welcome. Dr V.N Tripathi offers (advanced and beginners) yoga, meditation and Ayurveda lessons to guests.

I read the recommendations on the website and can vouch for them!

Maruti Guest House
B-1/86A Assi
Varanasi 221005

Tel: 0542-2312261

Website:
www.marutiguesthouse.com

Email:
marutiguesthouse@yahoo.co.in

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Every evening around 7 o'clock there is an incredible Hindu ceremony to the gods through the five elements, which is performed by sadhus. The ceremony takes place on the main ghats along the River Ganges in the centre of Varanasi.

The walk to the main ghats through the markets is a great experience too. The main ghats are around the Dasaswamedh ghat, which is one of the oldest and holiest ghats. Here you can take a rowing boat on to the Ganges to catch the ceremony from the river. It's incredible to watch the ceremony and it was a really memorable experience of India.

It's a great way of getting in touch with the spiritual side of India in the oldest and one of the holiest cities in this amazing country.

Take a cycle rickshaw to the top of the open-air street market and walk down towards the river to find the Dasaswamedh ghat.

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The ghats are the main reason to visit Varanasi, but once you've done the standard tour and the boat trip, if you have time then simply pick a ghat you like and sit there for a day or so.

This is by far the best way to capture the essence of the city. You'll never get bored, there's too much going on, and you'll learn so much more about India and its people just by quietly observing the daily life and rituals of the Ganges from sunrise to sunset.

Walk along the banks of the river and pick a ghat that appeals: then find a spot to settle down and go with the flow.

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Famed for its Middle Eastern thali, the restaurant on the ground floor is generally packed - and for good reason. Despite the rather minimal decor, the waiters are turned out impeccably in smart bellhop outfits, and the food is very decently priced.

B1/107, Assi Ghat, Varanasi;
tel: 0542-2312560

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Varanasi is surreal place. The second you step onto the street you will be swarmed by beggars and people looking to sell you anything. It gets annoying but just ignore it or politely refuse. Boat rides at sunset are a must, don't settle for any time but just before sunrise in the morning. The sun rising on the Ganges is one of the most amazing things I've ever seen. Remember to respect their culture and not photograph the burning bodies along the ghats.

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There's quite a few Hotel Temples in India, I expect: this one just off Assi Ghat is a good one. It's not luxurious, but for the price (Rs 350, about 4 quid, for a double) it's very decent and enjoys a prime location overlooking the Ganges at the southern tip of the ghats.

The next best thing about the place is the staff, who make every effort possible for you. The food, on the other hand, owes a little too much to Maggi tomato ketchup.

tel : 542 236 8740, 236 8640, 236 8703
Fax : 0091-542-2368703
E-mail : info@hoteltemple.com
www.hoteltemple.com
www.angelfire.com/hi3/hoteltemple/

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