Phulwari, nestled behind a 19th Century gate close to Godaulia crossing, is popular with travellers - but beware - on a recent trip (June 2008) I got very ill after eating there, necessitating a long course of antibiotics.

Much better for pizza and Middle Eastern food is Hayat close to Assi ghat.

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Famed for its Middle Eastern thali, the restaurant on the ground floor is generally packed - and for good reason. Despite the rather minimal decor, the waiters are turned out impeccably in smart bellhop outfits, and the food is very decently priced.

B1/107, Assi Ghat, Varanasi;
tel: 0542-2312560

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