Rent a scooter (USD10 per day) to see a striking world of culture, history, architecture and astonishing natural beauty that is a sharp contrast to commercialism of Southern Bali resorts. A two day adventure will take you to the old cultural capital, monkey rain forests, dormant volcanoes, azure blue lakes, terraced rice fields, botanic gardens, waterfalls, hot springs, temples: the holiest one, one in the lake and another in the sea and through villages that changed little in the past 50 years – all that while air perfumed with cloves and roast coffee blows in your face. Or take a bike and the guide for USD30 per day – try Teguh or his brother, hell’s angels with heart of gold!

Gobang Tattoo Studio, Poppies Lane 1, Kuta +62 81 353 376 600, teguhkt@yahoo.com

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