We wandered into the courtyard of the palace as a respite from the market over the road — and ended up staying. Some of the pavilions have been turned into hotel rooms, but like no other hotel room you’ve ever stayed in: huge carved wooden doors, pagoda roofs supported by gilt pillars, painted masks, brocaded chairs. Some of the Sukawati family, who own the palace, were lounging on daybeds in other salons, one surrounded by birds of prey. And you can hear the music from the traditional dances from the comfort of your room. Surreal.

Ubud Palace, Jl Raya Ubud, 036 975057 $65 a night.

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