If one can get beyond the fact that it was established with money from one of the world's most controversial mining companies, this museum-cum-gallery has a fascinating permanent collection from Papua - Indonesia's half of New Guinea Island - and regular temporary exhibitions that stimulate and provoke.

Gedung 28, Jalan Kemang Utara

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Dating back to 1760, this recently restored mansion is just about the only remaining example of a country residence (what was country in 1760 is now city centre) built by a colonial grandee when Indonesia was the Dutch East Indies. Stimulating exhibitions are often held here but the place is definitely worth a visit even if none are on. A small shop sells tasteful souvenirs.

Jalan Gajah Mada 111; Tel: 634 7744

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Jakarta is overflowing with hip clubs and bars catering to all tastes. But if you want a snapshot of Jakarta's current artistic pulse head to Taman Ismail Marzuki in Cikini. There are modern, state-of-the-art theatres and cinemas, more traditional auditoriums, street performers and a cornucopia of restaurants and bars offering basic but tasty food and drink from all over Indonesia. The patrons range from the young, trendy, keen-to-be-seen set to bohemian artistes debating the latest trends.

Jalan Cikini Raya 73; Tel: 315 4087

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