Indonesian food is never pricey so for an expensive night out go to William Kafe Artistik, run by one of Indonesia's top gourmands, William Wongso. One has to book a couple of days in advance, which is when one plans the menu as each meal is made specially. The result is likely to be an amazing Asian-Western fusion meal. Food alone will be about £40pp. Drinks could easily see that double.

Jalan Panglima Polim Raya 63-65

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Vendors of "meals on wheels" can be found everywhere, although different food is sold at different times of the day. For very fast food, try the fried rice (nasi goreng), fried noodles (mie goreng) or anything that catches your eye. Cooked in front of you, the meals are generally palatable but, if not, at a maximum of c.Rp.5,000 you haven't lost anything except, possibly, your taste buds. Hint: if you don't like your food drowned in chilli sauce (sambal), just say Tidak pedas.

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Situated in the leafy, upmarket Kebayoran Baru neighbourhood. Great local food with a Sundanese (an ethnic group from West Java) twist and without the tacky music that gets played in so many restaurants. You'll be stretched to spend more than £7 per head.

Jalan Wolter Monginsidi 41

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Foods to look out for are sate (meat skewers), nasi goring istimewa (special fried rice - with chicken and prawns) and martabak telur (stuffed savoury pancakes). The greatest risk to one's stomach is from the drinks, ice and uncooked vegetables so newcomers should probably avoid these. Most stalls serve bottled or canned drinks. £1.50 is an expensive feed.

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