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Dublin at night
Photo: Guardian

The city that never shuts up
Angelique Chrisafis
"Dublin is not a city; it is a lazy man's continent,” Anthony Butler.

The Celtic Tiger has made Dublin as expensive as New York and almost as cosmopolitan - and it has all happened in a dizzying decade. But while the Big Apple is the city that never sleeps. Dublin is the city that never shuts up. As Joyce said, this is a city of talk, talk, talk. In taxis, cafes, toilets, pubs - and especially among the smokers exiled to the pavement by the smoking ban - everyone is gabbing. Dubliners may complain that no one has the time to talk since they have become rich, but somehow they manage it. Just like they have managed to elongate the weekend from Wednesday to Monday.

Dublin is big and small at the same time. Throw a stone down Grafton Street and chances are you'll hit an artist, a popstar, a writer or an actor. It's the world's smallest cultural superpower. There is always a world-class play on, or a literary spat, which is often as entertaining.

But try to drag yourself out of the pub when the sun shines as Dublin has the best beaches of any capital in the northern hemisphere. And everyone is young - more than half the population is under 35.
Best view
Killiney Hill
Walk to the top of Killiney Hill Park for heart-stopping views over the city and across Dun Laoghaire harbour and Dalkey Bay with the Suger Loaf and Dublin mountains in the distance. Described as Ireland's Bay of Naples, you'll also have a good perspective on the swish Dalkey pads of Bono, Neil Jordan and Dublin's finest. Take the Dart to Killiney or Dalkey. Afterwards, put your feet up in the pubs and cafes of Dalkey village.

www.dalkeyvillage.net/

  1. Dublin
  2. | view

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Best thing to do for free
Chester Beatty library
One of Dublin's greatest surprises, tucked away behind Dublin castle. An amazing collection of ancient manuscripts, including some of the earliest texts of the Bible as well as Islamic, Chinese, Japanese and Indian art. A deserving past winner of the European Museum of the Year Award, even the most difficult to please can while away hours on its explorations of world religions. The Middle-Eastern influenced canteen is one of Dublin's best-kept secrets for a good-value lunch.

Tel: (+353 1) 407 0750; www.cbl.ie/

  1. Dublin
  2. | art
  3. | culture
  4. | museum
  5. | free

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Where to watch the world go by
St Stephens Green
On a dry day, stretch out on the grass near the flowerbeds of this 22-acre park surrounded by Georgian architecture and monuments to famous Dubliners.

  1. Dublin
  2. | watch the world go by
  3. | park
  4. | free
  5. | architecture

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Nighttime hangout
Mulligan's
An old Joyce hangout, sombre, traditional and favoured by hacks and Gardai, but you're assured of an excellent pint and good conversation.

Poolbeg Street

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Cultural highlight
The Abbey Theatre
The powerhouse that produced playwrights from Sean O'Casey to Brian Friel remains one of the great theatres of the world. The Peacock studio is a good place to spot new writing.

26 Lower Abbey Street; Box Office: 00 353 1 878 7222; www.abbeytheatre.ie/

  1. Dublin
  2. | theatre
  3. | culture

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Bring back
Irish designer clothes
Clothes, jewellery, bags and pots by Irish designers at the Kilkenny Design shop.

6 Nassau Street; Tel: 00 353 1 677 7066.

  1. Dublin
  2. | shopping
  3. | local speciality

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Leave there
Giant green furry hats

  1. Dublin
  2. | tourist tat

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Time for love
Merrion Square
Disappear into Merrion Square garden for a stroll and a snog framed by Georgian buildings, including former homes of Oscar Wilde and WB Yeats.

  1. Dublin
  2. | romance

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Best-kept secret (till now)
The northside beaches
A ring of pearls that runs from Dollymount to Portmarnock and Malahide, with huge sweeps of sand and dunes perfect for bracing walks, flying kites and gawping at the horizon. Stop for a well-deserved meal in the restaurants of Malahide. Savour the view and the chips or ice creams at Howth.

Take the DART from the city centre; www.irishrail.ie/dart/home/

  1. Dublin
  2. | europe
  3. | secret
  4. | beach

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The thing to eat
Smoked cod and chips
Brave the queues at the legendary Leo Burdock's chipper near Christchurch cathedral.

2 Werburgh Street; Tel: 00 353 1 454 0306

  1. Dublin
  2. | food
  3. | local speciality

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Green space
Phoenix park
At over 700 acres, this is Dublin's giant playground - the largest enclosed urban park in Europe. It features lakes, deer, cricket and polo pitches, Dublin zoo and Áras an Uachtaráin, the home of the president.

From the city centre, wander along the Liffey to the Parkgate entrance opposite Heuston station.

  1. Dublin
  2. | park
  3. | zoo

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Best ride
DART
Staring out of the window on the DART along the coast heading south towards Greystones, but please not during rush-hour

  1. Dublin
  2. | view

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Keep the kids happy
Viking Splash tour
Historic tour in a second world war amphibious military vehicle which finishes in the Grand Canal.

64-65 Patrick Street; Tel: 00 353 1 707 6000; www.vikingsplashtours.com/

  1. Dublin
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Escape the crowds
Grand Canal
Wander along the Grand Canal stopping for a break on a bench next to the bronze of the poet Patrick Kavanagh near Baggot Street bridge.

  1. Dublin
  2. | escape

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The film to see before I go
The Commitments
Alan Parker and Roddy Doyle's 1991 film of his raucous Dublin novel.

  1. Dublin
  2. | film
  3. | film location

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... and the novel to read
James Joyce's Ulysses

  1. Dublin
  2. | books

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Where to eat (budget)
Gruel
A trendy city-centre soup kitchen with fine hot sandwiches, soups and salads, bangers and mash for well under £10. Go for the excellent specials.

67 Dame Street; Tel: 00 353 1 6707119

  1. Dublin
  2. | eating
  3. | budget

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Where to eat (moderate)
Mackerel
Upstairs at the old Bewley's building, this is the newest place for excellent Irish seafood and fish. A few weeks after opening, it found its way into the Irish Times's list of top restaurants in Ireland. Main courses €9-€32.

78 Grafton Street; Tel: 00 353 1 672 7719; www.mackerel.ie/

  1. Dublin
  2. | eating

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Where to eat (posh)
L'Ecrivain
Arguably Dublin's finest Michelin-starred restaurant, the best of modern Irish cooking, from oysters to cabbage, Dublin bay prawns to Irish salmon, in a surprisingly relaxed atmosphere. Main courses up to €48, or three-course lunch for €45.

109a Lower Baggot Street; Tel: 00 353 1 6611919; www.lecrivain.com/

  1. Dublin
  2. | eating
  3. | posh

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Where to stay (budget)
Oaklodge B&B
It is practically impossible to find a decent, quiet, budget room in Dublin, which is why I like the Oaklodge. It is a no frills, small Victorian terraced family house on a quiet residential street in Ballsbridge at the edge of the 'embassy belt'. Yes, it's at least a 30-minute walk from the city centre, or a swift bus ride, but it is the perfect starting point to scout out the beautiful redbrick streets of Dublin 4. Warm welcome, good breakfast. €40 per person for a double room in August, €35 per person per night in winter.

4 Pembroke Park, off Clyde Road, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4; Tel: 00 353 1 660 6096; www.oaklodge.ie/

  1. Dublin
  2. | budget
  3. | accommodation

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Where to stay (moderate)
Number 31
The former home of the architect Sam Stephenson is truly a secluded delight. Choose a room in the converted coach house if you can. Amazing breakfasts.

31 Leeson Close, Dublin 2; Tel: 353 1 676 5011; www.number31.ie/

  1. Dublin
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Where to stay (posh)
The Clarence
U2's luxurious design hotel on the banks of the Liffey.

6-8 Wellington Quay; Tel: 353 1 4070800; www.theclarence.ie/

  1. Dublin
  2. | posh
  3. | accommodation

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Find out what's on
Irish Times
Buy the Irish Times on Friday for its guide The Ticket, www.ireland.com/theticket, or Hot Press magazine, www.hotpress.com/whatson/

www.ireland.com/theticket; www.hotpress.com/whatson/

  1. Dublin
  2. | events
  3. | newspaper
  4. | magazine

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Get there from the airport
Airport transfer: Aircoach
At €10 for a return ticket this 24 hour service costs half as much as you might pay for a one way cab journey into the city centre. Tickets can be purchased from the driver or using your mobile phone.

www.dub.aero

  1. Dublin
  2. | transport

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