Ireland
In one of the early scenes in the film 'Once', Glen and Marketa are seen chatting over a cup of tea in the window of Simon's Place Coffee Shop on George's Street. Later they cross the street to Waltons music shop. The café is located within George's Street Arcade, one of Dublin's oldest indoor markets, dating back to 1894. Simon's Place attracts a bohemian mix of artists, students and musicians and is always at its busiest during lunchtime hours - it's not unusual for queues to spill out the door. The café prides itself on its freshly made soups and thickly cut ‘doorstep’ salad sandwiches - get here early if you plan to dine-in for a bite.
22, South Great George's Street, Dublin 2
+353 1 679 7821
Google map: bit.ly/XqR1Eb
* Fiona is our Been there local for Dublin. You can follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/FionaHilliard and read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/trails/been-there-locals.jsp. She also has her own blog: www.traveledits.com
South William Street's Clement & Pekoe is a veritable Aladdin's cave of loose leaf tea and coffee. The black tea caddies and art deco chandeliers certainly lend an air of eastern promise and decadence, but it's the carefully selected teas and coffee beans that really elevate Clement and Pekoe above the competition.
The owners are husband and wife team Dairine Keogh and Simon Cummins and they pride themselves on sourcing the finest pickings from around the globe whether it's leaves, blends, herbs, tisanes or freshly roasted single origin beans.
Choose from their selection of Black Tea, Green Tea, White Tea, Fruit Tisane, Herbal, Oolong, Puerh and Rooibos and they'll be only delighted to advise you on the best combinations to suit your taste and brew your chosen tea exactly to your liking. When the sun is shining, grab a seat out front on their picnic bench and enjoy one of their cooling iced teas including: Turkish apple, mango, or finest Ceylon tea, all served with ice, lemon and fresh mint. Oh and don't pass up on their delicious scones.
www.clementandpekoe.com/
50 William St S Dublin 2, Ireland
+353(0)87 637 0123
Google map: bit.ly/KW9XZ4
* Fiona is our Been there local for Dublin. You can follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/FionaHilliard and read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/trails/been-there-locals.jsp. She also has her own blog: www.traveledits.com
Capel Street is having a bit of a moment, and it's places like the recently opened Brother Hubbard that are playing a central role in this new found trendiness. Don't be fooled by the clean lines and utilitarian styling of Brother Hubbard, already this café is becoming as famous for the friendly manner of owners Garrett Fitzgerald
and James Boland as it is for its delicious cakes, coffee and tea.
Tuck into their freshly baked cinnamon and walnut rolls, oven-warm scones and chocolate brownies. Alternatively, you won't feel guilty about trying one of their wheat- and dairy-free seed slices. The coffee is Has Bean, provided by Dublin’s 3FE, while the tea comes from none other than Wall & Keogh.
brotherhubbard.ie/
153 Capel Street, Dublin 1
+353 (0)1 441 1112
Google map: bit.ly/KW9Jku
* Fiona is our Been there local for Dublin. You can follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/FionaHilliard and read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/trails/been-there-locals.jsp. She also has her own blog: www.traveledits.com
Portobello's Wall & Keogh lay dormant for 40 years. But it was tea that revived this former painting and decorating shop. Big glass jars full of pungent, organic loose leaf tea.
From the chilled out beats on the sound system to the interesting, eclectic furnishings, these days owner Oliver T. Cunningham likes to keep things cool and classy.
Tea is something of an art form at Wall & Keogh. They take their time over blends, the whole infusion process can last between three to 15 minutes - the perfect excuse to sit back and have a game of chess or just enjoy the background music, most probably mixed by owner Oliver himself. It's that kind of place.
A large pot of tea will set you back €4 and homemade cakes include rocky road, lemon slice, banana cake and brownies.
Should your tea break run into a lazy lunch, (it happens) there's sushi on standby to sate your appetite. And another thing, when the weather is fine, you can take your picnic out back and bask in the sun-dappled canal bank location.
www.wallandkeogh.com/
45 Richmond Street South, Portbello, Dublin 2
+353 (0)1 475 9052
Google map: bit.ly/MnyQtj
* Fiona is our Been there local for Dublin. You can follow her tips here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/travellers/FionaHilliard and read her profile here: www.ivebeenthere.co.uk/trails/been-there-locals.jsp. She also has her own blog: www.traveledits.com
A fab restaurant serving great American-style breakfast e.g. french toast pancakes, steak and eggs. Huge portions on large plates. Well worth a visit.
18 Temple Bar, Dublin 2, Co. Dublin, Ireland
+353(0)1 6793121
Google map: bit.ly/fsSZt8
Slightly outside the city centre but near several hotels this tiny Greek-Med cafe has some of the best Greek food in Dublin. On paper the menu isn't innovative, but the standards are cooked to near perfection. In addition there is a Bring Your Own policy with no corkage fee (and the excellent Louis Albrouze wine shops a few doors down)
129 Upper Lesson Street, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4
+353 1 668 9793
www.keshkcafe.ie
Google map: tinyurl.com/yzj8edc
Simon's place is a throwback of a cafe, reminiscent of a time where not every inch of Dublin was dedicated to profit maximisation. You can get coffee, tea, juice, a sandwich, salad, some homemade soup and a bun, and that’s it. Oh and toast if you get there before 12.
The coffee is good, the hot chocolate strong, the sandwiches fair, the soup middling. The cinnamon buns are meant to be delicious, but as I hate cinnamon I didn't try them.
The ambiance, however, is brilliant. The wall are utterly covered in posters advertising gigs (often serving to show you what you've missed), the music is eclectic but relaxed, the customers the eclectic but relaxed and the staff lovely.
Part of the George Street Arcade
A cosy little cafe serving all manner of tarts (sweet and savoury), cakes, muffins, scones, and pastries, all home-made. Delicious, filling, and reasonably priced. Great for breakfast, lunch or afternoon tea.
Dame St, Dublin 2 - or there's another branch round the corner on Cows Lane
www.queenoftarts.ie/
A five minute stroll from the top of O'Connel Street is the recently renovated and extended Hugh Lane, the official Dublin City Municipal Art Gallery. Its bright, naturally lit spaces make it one of the most pleasant places to spend an afternoon in Dublin, especially if it's raining. The highlight is an exact recreation of the chaotic studio of Francis Bacon, which you view through the room's windows and door. There is a wide variety of painting, photographic and stained glass and sculptural work on display, both modern and classical, a well stocked art book shop, and chic (if slightly pricy) cafe. Best of all, it's totally free.
Parnell Square North.
A stylish cafe with great food and service within the art gallery.
The food is ok but the wines! A truly impressive and not very expensive collection of interesting Italian wines. They have two places, curiously enough separated by another cafe. Choose the right one where all the wines are! By the way, the brioche (croissant) and cappuccino are great.
www.dunneandcrescenzi.com
14-16 South Frederick St
Dublin 2
6773815 /6759892
The kids loved the pizza here, and the fact they could wander round unhindered. The statue of the naked lady in the corner caused great amusement as well. On the very top floor there is a theatre. It's worth finding out if there is a performance on when you're there. We watched an entrancing xmas story monologue, which kept even the jaded Playstationer glued to his seat. Free soup with a ticket was also a bonus on a cold winter's day.
78/9 Grafton Street
+353 1 6727720
www.bewleyscafe.com
The Amnesty International café, right in the heart of Temple Bar, is an oasis of calm (not to mention intellect and compassion) in an area dominated by overpriced restaurants and “pubs” stuffed with stag nights and rugby fans. Good strong and cheap coffee, tasty food, great reading material and much more besides, this place sticks out like a sane thumb.
Address: 48 Fleet Street, Dublin 2.
Telephone: (353-1)6776361
Website: www.amnesty.ie
Email: info@amnesty.ie
Opening hours: Monday-Saturday, 10:00-18:00.
The best hot chocolate ever.
At the airport, as well as numerous locations in central Dublin, including: 24 Wicklow St; 51a Grafton St; 18 Nassau St; 9 Chatham St; 31 Henry St
Simon's is a gem. One of the best places to have a coffee and a bite to eat in the whole city. The freshly baked cinnamon buns alone are worth crossing the Liffey for. The staff are efficient, helpful and friendly. The food is good wholesome, unprocessed and well put together unlike the sorry offerings of the chains of sandwich bars that unfortunately proliferate elsewhere around town.
And it’s clean.
St George's Arcade
A modern creperie - boasting two branches either side of Grafton St - that serves tasty French treats in a variety of sweet and savoury flavours as well as toasted sandwiches. The main reason that I visit is for the coffee, which I believe to be the best in Dublin.
Dawson St, South William St
This is a lovely place to wander around. Here’s a few places to look out for:
Castle Market: La Maison des Gourmets for cakes and Costume for posh frocks. On Drury Street: Jenny Vander for vintage clothes and a few other small fashion shops. More small shops and stalls (food, clothes, secondhand books) in George's Street Arcade, as well as the grubby but charming cafe, Simon's Place. On South William Street, sit outside Ba Mizu on a (rare) sunny day, or try Dakota (sometimes cool, sometimes tries too hard).
Between Grafton Street and George's Street, Dublin 2
Nice relaxed place for simple dishes and pretty good wines.
Chez Max, Palace Street (next to Dublin Castle, off Dame Street), Dublin 2
Just off Grafton Street. Beautiful breakfasts, poached eggs, muffins, smoked salmon, irish bacon, soda bread and THE most delicious coffee. Friendly staff, newspapers and generally chilled morning brekky. Perfect.
Cafe Java (South Anne Street) 5 South Anne Street, Dublin 2
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