The north coast of the Dingle peninsula is a golden necklace of beaches reached by those narrow lanes that get narrower and narrower and have grass growing down the middle and potholes which threaten exhaust systems.

Walk the strand for an hour at Castlegregory on a hot July afternoon and work off a lunch of seafood chowder from a little bar in the village. The only other sign of life is a pair of squabbling gulls which follow hopefully.

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