A seventeenth-century star fort in Kinsale Harbour, a very pleasant walk from the town either by road or along the water's edge. One of the few remaining forts of the period with its outer walls and star formation defences intact. It's well worth the walk - the view out to the harbour is magnificent and from what I remember of my last trip there, the displays and historical information are good too.

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Seafood of course is one of the main dishes on this warm seaboard that teems with an abundance of fish. Try the Mussels Mariniere cooked in white wine with a little garlic and parsley, the juices mopped up with fresh crusty bread from the local bakery. Or the langoustines seared over charcoal, the gentle smell of the charred shells anticipating the feast to come. And wild Atlantic salmon caught 20 miles up the river having spent three years across the ocean in the Sargasso Sea, and now responding to the timeless urge to breed in the place it was spawned. Wrapped in soaked newspaper, (the Irish Times of course), stuffed with herbs grown on the hillside near Old Kinsale Head, and steamed to perfection over the very hottest of charcoal, the succulent flesh falls off the bones.

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Old Kinsale Head is worth visiting to look out over the deceptive and anonymous waves to where the Lusitania was torpedoed by a German U-boat in 1915 with the loss of a thousand lives.

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