Dublin's best live music venue, in a city which is full of great music, it has been around for years and has live music every night of the week. Also has a great late bar where you never know who you will spot.

25 Wexford Street, Dublin 2; Telephone 4780766; www.whelanslive.com

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At €10 for a return ticket this 24 hour service costs half as much as you might pay for a one way cab journey into the city centre. Tickets can be purchased from the driver or using your mobile phone.

www.dub.aero

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There is absolutely no excuse for coming to Dublin and returning with a big green furry hat.

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To find out what's going on in the city, buy the Irish Times on Friday for its guide, The Ticket, or pick up Hot Press magazine.

www.ireland.com/theticket; www.hotpress.com/whatson/

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Not only for the great collection of works by Jack B Yeats and family, but also for its Caravaggio and El Greco. Marvel at the architecture of the new Millenium wing.

Merrion Square West; Tel: +353-1-661 5133; www.nationalgallery.ie/

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The entire chaotic contents of Francis Bacon's South Kensington studio painstakingly reconstructed. Bacon's last unfinished portrait is part of the gallery's excellent permanent collection.

Hugh Lane Gallery, Parnell Square North; Tel: 00 353 1 222 5550; Open Tue-Sun; www.hughlane.ie/

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Wander through the melancholy, crumbling beauty of Glasnevin cemetery, resting place of Irish revolutionary heroes, including Daniel O'Connell and Michael Collins. Near the back gate, stop for a drink on a wooden bench at Kavanagh's, the popular and amazingly unaltered old gravedigger's pub.

Buses 40 or 40A, B and C from Parnell Street; www.glasnevin-cemetery.ie/

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Take in a 360-degree view of the city and a free pint in the glass-walled bar at the top of the 1904 storehouse. Entry is part of the Guinness Storehouse tour, €14 per adult. Open 9.30am-5.30pm in winter, and until 8pm in summer.

St James's Gate, Dublin 8; Tel: +353 (1) 408 4800; www.guinnessstorehouse.com/

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On a Saturday morning, wander the Temple Bar food market, scoffing samples. Best are the Irish cheeses, smoked fish and organic produce from family farms outside Dublin.

Meeting House Square, Temple Bar; Saturday 10am-5pm; see www.temple-bar.ie/culture_markets_food.asp for a list of traders.

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U2's luxurious design hotel on the banks of the Liffey.

6-8 Wellington Quay; Tel: 353 1 4070800; www.theclarence.ie/

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The former home of the architect Sam Stephenson is truly a secluded delight. Choose a room in the converted coach house if you can. Amazing breakfasts.

31 Leeson Close, Dublin 2; Tel: 353 1 676 5011; www.number31.ie/

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It is practically impossible to find a decent, quiet, budget room in Dublin, which is why I like the Oaklodge. It is a no frills, small Victorian terraced family house on a quiet residential street in Ballsbridge at the edge of the "embassy belt". Yes, it's at least a 30-minute walk from the city centre, or a swift bus ride, but it is the perfect starting point to scout out the beautiful redbrick streets of Dublin 4. Warm welcome, good breakfast. €40 per person for a double room in August, €35 per person per night in winter.

4 Pembroke Park, off Clyde Road, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4; Tel: 00 353 1 660 6096; www.oaklodge.ie/

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Arguably Dublin's finest Michelin-starred restaurant, the best of modern Irish cooking, from oysters to cabbage, Dublin bay prawns to Irish salmon, in a surprisingly relaxed atmosphere. Main courses up to €48, or three-course lunch for €45.

109a Lower Baggot Street; Tel: 00 353 1 6611919; www.lecrivain.com/

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Alan Parker and Roddy Doyle's 1991 film of his raucous Dublin novel.

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Wander along the Grand Canal stopping for a break on a bench next to the bronze of the poet Patrick Kavanagh near Baggot Street bridge.

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Historic tour in a second world war amphibious military vehicle which finishes in the Grand Canal.

64-65 Patrick Street; Tel: 00 353 1 707 6000; www.vikingsplashtours.com/

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Staring out of the window on the DART along the coast heading south towards Greystones, but please not during rush hour.

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At over 700 acres, this is Dublin's giant playground - the largest enclosed urban park in Europe. It features lakes, deer, cricket and polo pitches, Dublin zoo and Áras an Uachtaráin, the home of the president.

From the city centre, wander along the Liffey to the Parkgate entrance opposite Heuston station.

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Brave the queues at the legendary Leo Burdock's chipper near Christchurch cathedral.

2 Werburgh Street; Tel: 00 353 1 454 0306

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A ring of pearls that runs from Dollymount to Portmarnock and Malahide, with huge sweeps of sand and dunes perfect for bracing walks, flying kites and gawping at the horizon. Stop for a well-deserved meal in the restaurants of Malahide. Savour the view and the chips or ice creams at Howth.

Take the DART from the city centre; www.irishrail.ie/dart/home/

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