- Florence
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Italy
I'm a terrible cook and enrolled in a cooking course in Tuscany much to my husband's delight and I can honestly say I can now cook 'Italian' to a passable standard. I jumped on a mini bus in the centre of Florence at 9.30am and was driven just outside of the city centre into the beautiful green hills of Tuscany. We pulled up at a pretty Tuscan villa where we were introduced to our Italian chef. We got our aprons on and went outside to pick fresh herbs and veg from the gardens, the smells were amazing and the chef made me really think about the importance of using fresh produce for your cooking.
I learned to cook so many dishes and sauces, this course takes you well beyond the spaghetti bolognese. I can now cook a full three-course meal and many other side dishes to a passable quality. The wine flowed and the fact that it was produced from the vineyards in the grounds made it all taste so much better. I had a brilliant time and highly recommend it (so can my husband!). It's a brilliant add-on to a trip to Florence and I'll definitely go back for more lessons later in the year.
www.golearnto.com/course/overview/1020/First+Taste+of+Tuscany+Cooking+Holiday
Pick up from Florence city centre at 9.30am, just 10 euros return which is well worth the money. Book it online, it's easy - everything works out brilliantly and you only have to pay a deposit.
Great place on Via Del Proconsulo, near the Bargello. As you walk from the Duomo towards the river you will do worse than to stop in Yellow Bar - the Nona making the pasta between the kitchen and the stairs alone is worth the price of admission (there isn't a price of admission). Very busy, locals and tourists.
Great food at low, low prices. We had dinner for 30 with wine (and not from a fixed menu!) that came to less than 20 euro per person. Wonderful spot.
Via Del Proconsolo, 39/R
50122 Firenze (FI), Italy
Get Directions
055 211766
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Brilliant and off the beaten track but packed with Florentines. The night we were there Cesare Prandelli (Fiorentina football manager) was there with his staff. They have a large central ebony table that can seat 30 but with a mezzanine level and a large room upstairs they even accommodated my group of 28 without a reservation on a Sunday night!
Great eclectic Italian menu with some southern as well as Florentine classics. Brilliant service. 30 euro per person
Via Pisana - west of Ponte Vecchio on the south side of the Arno...
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Just spent a month in Florence and ate in this wondrous restaurant seven times! Great food, terrific atmosphere, superb service, discounts and many free drinks. They gave us two bottles of wine on our last night. Watch the laid back guys in the kitchen and appreciate the effortless charm and expertise of the staff. Fantastic!
Via Santo Spirito near the Ponte Vecchio
This wine bar/restaurant has wonderful and imaginative food, well priced for the quality.
via di santo spirito 64-66r
055-211264
www.santobevitore.com
Homely yet sophisticated Tuscan food in a family setting.
Mountain fare can be a bit turgid but this is wonderful: carpaccio of newly-picked mushrooms with lemon, pasta with hare sauce, guinea-fowl in marsala, fresh home made apple pie...
Down-to-earth presentation; food to die for.
We sampled about ten restaurants in around the national park and this is head and shoulders the best.
Moggiona di Poppi
Tel: 0575 556080
A great little cafe near the station with delicious coffee and snacks. Friendly service.
Via Faenza 68/R
Santo Spirito, as i think a few have pointed out, gives you a welcome breather from the tourists yet it can only be a hundred yards from the Ponte Vechhio.
It is popular with students and with the locals (nearby are some delis and whatnot so you actually see Florentines) and comes to life after nine or so in the evening.
At the top of the square is Brunelleschi’s spectacular church - as well as having a crucifix by a very young Michelangelo, it was studied and admired by many including Da Vinci and it is easy to see why. It is especially pretty when the facade is lit at night.
There are a few restaurants and a couple of bars in the square, the type of spots where, if you drink too many amerettos, they give you a tequilla on the house - the atmosphere is friendly at all of them.
Istayed at Antica Dimora with a friend but it would be especially nice to go there romantically - ask for a room with a little balcony. You can watch (and listen!) to the market being set up in the morning. The rooms are huge with lovely wooden beams and, maybe vaguely kitsch decor but it feels like you’ve been to Firenze! It’s a short back street walk to the wonderful, wonderful Bobili gardens too.
piazza santo spirito no.9
t. +39 055 2658376
50125 Firenze
www.residenzasspirito.com
In a city of a amazing food, this restaurant topped the list! Typical Tuscan cuisine but with an incredibly vast menu. It has an excellent atmosphere and friendly staff. So good I even bought the recipe book!
Piazza del Mercato Centrale
Trattoria Anita is a great but cheap restaurant. We went for lunch and dinner. Two course lunch for two including wine came to 20 Euros. It has a cosy wooden interior and very friendly staff. Food was delicious and certainly good value. Added bonus is it is near Gelateria dei Neri so you can pop for icecream afterwards!
Via del Parlascio 2/r
Tel: 055 218 698
A traditional tavern oozing atmosphere and serving typical Florentine cuisine. The speciality is florentine beefsteak. The food is tasty and inexpensive and there is a vast array of wines that sit on shelves along side of you!
Its in the San Lorenzo area near the market, which is well worth a visit, being the largest covered food market in Europe.
Via Borgo San Lorenzo,35/37;
tel: 055 212 206;
www.gianninoinflorence.com
A relaxed square overlooked by the Church of Santo Spirito, on the less crowded south side of the river. Any of the restaurants in the square will produce a satisfying and inexpensive meal. Makes the leisurely evening stroll away from the tourist traps well worth it.
Cross the Ponta a Santa Trinita. Head down the Via Maggio for about 5 minutes and take a right.
One of the best ice cream parlours you'll ever find. The proprietor used to run the famous Vivoli parlour, which is good, but a massive tourist trap. He cashed in and sold it off years ago, starting instead this unassuming little gem. The ice-cream is less rich and egg-heavy than that of Vivoli, resulting in a style that is perhaps less good for the indulgent dessert flavours (e.g. Zuppa Inglese; Strega), but allows more varied flavours to really sparkle. The fruit flavours are out of this world (e.g. Mandarin; Melon), and there are some more exotic flavours (e.g. Chilli & Chocolate) that you don't find in more traditional parlours.
Via Dei Neri 20/22 Rosso, Central Florence;
tel: 055 210 034
A delightful restaurant overlooking the Ponte Vecchio on the south side of the river. A meal for two including a reserve bottle of wine and three courses costs around 90 euros. Would recommend booking a table by the window for clear views of the bridge and the Arno.
Via dei Bardi, 58r (near Ponte Vecchio); tel: 055 214 502
Dead cheap and one of the best views of Florence. Drink in the Blu Bar (expensive, but fantastic views), eat in the pizzeria on the square opposite and take a walk up the hill for an even more spectacular view
Buy a bus ticket at any tabac and get the no 7 - it goes from Piazza del Duomo and stops in the square in Fiesole, just beside the Blu Bar (which is at Piazza Mino Da Fiesole, 39; tel: 055 597235).
There are two parts to Cibreo, an expensive restaurant and a much cheaper brasserie. The latter is superb quality at about 30 euros a head. The pappa al pomodoro makes River Cafe look like McDonalds. This was so creamy and light that I had no problem wolfing it down on a hot July evening. I also tried the polenta with basil which made me want to cry. If someone honestly told me that my main course that night would be polenta, basil and parmesan I wouldn't have got up from the sofa. But these people make simple dishes in a way I have never encountered before in UK. The guy has a superb selection of chianti at about 8 euros too. Can't recommend it highly enough. If you go there for lunch have a gander round the local food market first: the sight of all that throbbing salsiccia with fennel or wild boar will have your stomach screaming for more by 12.
Via Dei Macci, 118/R - walking distance from Ponte Vecchio;
tel: 055 2268410
I cannot recommend this place highly enough. Forget all the other gelaterias that try to lure you in: Vivoli is a traditional, longstanding family-run business. All gelati are made fresh, with all natural ingredients. I have never tasted anything like those ice-creams since. My husband and I both went in, two days in a row, and tried four different flavours each. That's how good it is. We were sad we didn't get to cover them all. Seriously, do not miss this place.
7 Via Isole delle Stinche, just south of the crossroad with Via Ghibellina;
tel: (+39) 55 292 334;
www.vivoli.it
This bar - favoured by the beautiful young things of Florence - is the perfect place for pre-dinner aperitivo. Plates of delicious cold meats, cheeses and pasta are served up, washed down with Florence's best (though highly alcoholic) cocktails and accompanied by low-key music from resident DJs. It's also perfect after midnight, when the party spills onto the street, and the illuminated Ponte Vecchio serves as a backdrop to the Florentine frolics.
Lungarno Corsini 12-14r next to Ponte Santa Trinita; tel: 055 210 751 or 055 293 258
Spent a few months in Florence as a student back in the 90s, a wonderful city which can be more beautiful out of season, even if the weather isn't so good. If you get a chance, try the little city of Fiesole a short bus ride up into the hills. It has a Roman amphitheatre which is still used and some delightful restaurants. A great day out if you want to get away from the busy streets of Firenze!
Fiesole us 5 miles (8km) from Florence. Bus no. 7 travels there from Piazza del Duomo. www.arca.net/tourism/toscana/fiesole.htm
My wife and I went to Florence. Our first evening, we went looking for a restaurant. The big restaurants in the squares were obvious tourist traps, so we went exploring the alleys. We found a fantastic little hole-in-the-wall restaurant where no-one spoke English. Neither of us spoke Italian, but we managed to have a wonderful meal including "una litro de vino russo de casa" (told you I don't speak Italian) - and it cost very little.
Next evening, we went looking for the place but could not find it. But we found another small place run by a woman, her son and his daughter. Bright and clean - and, despite the language barriers, we had no problem ordering a fantastic meal that cost us very little.
And, wandering these gloomy little back alleys, at no time did I feel we were in any danger.
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