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Gulf of Genoa
Photo: Corbis

Italy's secret
One of Italy's best kept secrets, Genoa is the birthplace of both Christopher Columbus and pesto. The old centre is an atmospheric maze of narrow alleyways, leading down to a recently renovated port area which is home to one of the largest aquaria in Europe, as well as several notable pieces of modern architecture by Renzo Piano.
Best view
Il Bigo
Renzo Piano's distinctive spiky sculpture in the recently regenerated old port allows visitors to fly 40m into the air to enjoy a view over both the rooftops of the old centre, and the whole port area. They say that, on a clear day, you can also see the coast of Corsica ...

www.arup.com/italy/project.cfm?pageid=3897

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Escape the crowds
Staglieno Cemetery
One of the biggest monumental cemeteries in Europe, you can easily fill an afternoon wandering amongst its wooded lanes, and marvelling at the vast array of sculpture and sarcophagi on display at Staglieno. Atmospheric and relaxing, heaven for photographers, and a nice contrast to the claustrophobic bustle of the narrow lanes of the old town.

www.cimiterodistaglieno.it/ Piazzale Resasco

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Where to eat (moderate)
Squarciafico
One of my favourite restaurants deep in the heart of the old centre of Genoa, just around the corner from the Cattedrale San Lorenzo. Serves both traditional and modern Ligurian cuisine in stylish surroundings. Prices are reasonable and the wine selection is good too.

Piazza Invrea, 3 R; Tel: 247 0823; www.squarciafico.it

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Where to stay (budget)
Hotel Cristoforo Colombo
Recently renovated, small, family run hotel in the old centre of Genoa. Beautifully decorated, reasonable prices, and only a few minutes walk from the cathedral.

Via Porta Soprana, 59 R; Tel: 251 3643; www.hotelcolombo.it/indexEng.htm

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Where to stay (moderate)
Hotel Bristol Palace
One of the most stylish hotels in Genoa, ideally located on the main street Via XX Settembre, and a few minutes walk from the old centre and other attractions. Rooms are large and luxuriously decorated, service is friendly and efficient. Prices vary but bargains are possible.

Via XX Settembre, 35; Tel: 592 541; www.hotelbristolpalace.com

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