What a surprise. Recommended by another restaurant owner in the city we booked this wonderful inn.
Warm and very friendly welcome by the owner.
The food was great:
Appetizer and celery (good but a little corny for my taste), salt cod fritters (great), potato "gnocchi" with clams and "bottarga" (still remember them ... great), noodles with asparagus, shrimp and squid (excellent) and dessert.
I drank a good white wine of the area (telling the truth four glasses) of a winery I knew. I was pleasantly surprised by both the quality of the dishes and the competence and friendliness of the owner.
I will definitely return! Excellent value for money.

www.trattoriasancarlo.it/
Via David Chiossone, 41 16123 Genoa, Italy
+39(0)10 2534294
Google map: bit.ly/RxOjic

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A small and friendly hotel in an historic palazzo complete with frescoed vaulted ceilings. Room 15 is an excellent example, large room with bathroom, fridge, T.V. and views of Via Balbi. Wake up to the smell of farinata/focaccia cooking next door. Close to historic sights and Station Principe. It cost us 80 Euros per night in high season including a good breakfast.

Balbi Family Hotel,
Via Balbi 23/3
Genoa
39 0226830102

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In the heart of the home city of pesto lies this delightful, traditional trattoria that gives a truly authentic taste of Italian dining. No private tables, no pretentions, just amazing pasta alla genovese and other mouth-watering delights, particularly the fresh fish.

14 Vico Testadoro
Genoa, 16123, Italy

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Lovely gallery in a superb location specialising in modern and Ligurian art, with possibly the friendliest staff ever.

We arrived to be told it was closed (out of season), but instead of that being that, the staff had a little chat between themselves and decided that it would be OK for us to go and look at everything anyway.

They gave us a book, got the caretaker and he proceeded to take us up to where every piece of art they owned was in storage! Hung on rollers in a vast space in the attic.

No way would they have the space to show everything in the museum, yet they let two tourists have the run of the place. Great fun and a truly once in a lifetime experince. The sort of thing that only the owners and workers of galleries get to do.

Via J. Ruffini 3, Genova
www.museovillacroce.it

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Brilliant 'design' hotel. Superbly located opposite the cathedral with only six rooms, all of which are enormous and have massive floor to ceiling windows.

Piazza San Lorenzo 16
www.palazzocicala.it

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One of the biggest monumental cemeteries in Europe, you can easily fill an afternoon wandering amongst its wooded lanes, and marvelling at the vast array of sculpture and sarcophagi on display at Staglieno. Atmospheric and relaxing, heaven for photographers, and a nice contrast to the claustrophobic bustle of the narrow lanes of the old town.

www.cimiterodistaglieno.it/ Piazzale Resasco

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One of my favourite restaurants deep in the heart of the old centre of Genoa, just around the corner from the Cattedrale San Lorenzo. Serves both traditional and modern Ligurian cuisine in stylish surroundings. Prices are reasonable and the wine selection is good too.

Piazza Invrea, 3 R; Tel: 247 0823; www.squarciafico.it

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Renzo Piano's distinctive spiky sculpture in the recently regenerated old port allows visitors to fly 40m into the air to enjoy a view over both the rooftops of the old centre, and the whole port area. They say that, on a clear day, you can also see the coast of Corsica ...

www.arup.com/italy/project.cfm?pageid=3897

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Recently renovated, small, family run hotel in the old centre of Genoa. Beautifully decorated, reasonable prices, and only a few minutes walk from the cathedral.

Via Porta Soprana, 59 R; Tel: 251 3643; www.hotelcolombo.it/indexEng.htm

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One of the most stylish hotels in Genoa, ideally located on the main street Via XX Settembre, and a few minutes walk from the old centre and other attractions. Rooms are large and luxuriously decorated, service is friendly and efficient. Prices vary but bargains are possible.

Via XX Settembre, 35; Tel: 592 541; www.hotelbristolpalace.com

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