Lovely gallery in a superb location specialising in modern and Ligurian art, with possibly the friendliest staff ever.

We arrived to be told it was closed (out of season), but instead of that being that, the staff had a little chat between themselves and decided that it would be OK for us to go and look at everything anyway.

They gave us a book, got the caretaker and he proceeded to take us up to where every piece of art they owned was in storage! Hung on rollers in a vast space in the attic.

No way would they have the space to show everything in the museum, yet they let two tourists have the run of the place. Great fun and a truly once in a lifetime experince. The sort of thing that only the owners and workers of galleries get to do.

Via J. Ruffini 3, Genova
www.museovillacroce.it

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Brilliant 'design' hotel. Superbly located opposite the cathedral with only six rooms, all of which are enormous and have massive floor to ceiling windows.

Piazza San Lorenzo 16
www.palazzocicala.it

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Genoa is not very well-known, but indeed very beautiful. And from Genoa you can easily get to Portofino and Cinque Terre.

You can visit www.ligurianautica.com for photos and information. The Cinque Cerre pages are in English www.ligurianautica.com/cinque_terre.asp For a website with nice webcam visit www.liguriawebcam.com

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One of the biggest monumental cemeteries in Europe, you can easily fill an afternoon wandering amongst its wooded lanes, and marvelling at the vast array of sculpture and sarcophagi on display at Staglieno. Atmospheric and relaxing, heaven for photographers, and a nice contrast to the claustrophobic bustle of the narrow lanes of the old town.

www.cimiterodistaglieno.it/ Piazzale Resasco

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One of my favourite restaurants deep in the heart of the old centre of Genoa, just around the corner from the Cattedrale San Lorenzo. Serves both traditional and modern Ligurian cuisine in stylish surroundings. Prices are reasonable and the wine selection is good too.

Piazza Invrea, 3 R; Tel: 247 0823; www.squarciafico.it

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Having spent a few nights on easyCruise after a music festival in Spain I suggest that anyone following in my steps on the satsuma coloured floating youth hostel take with them some guide books for the area. The prices might be lacking but so is the staff, most we spoke to had never left site of the boat and couldn't recommend restaurants, provide advice on attractions or even tell you where the nearest bus stop is.

www.easycruise.com

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Renzo Piano's distinctive spiky sculpture in the recently regenerated old port allows visitors to fly 40m into the air to enjoy a view over both the rooftops of the old centre, and the whole port area. They say that, on a clear day, you can also see the coast of Corsica ...

www.arup.com/italy/project.cfm?pageid=3897

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Recently renovated, small, family run hotel in the old centre of Genoa. Beautifully decorated, reasonable prices, and only a few minutes walk from the cathedral.

Via Porta Soprana, 59 R; Tel: 251 3643; www.hotelcolombo.it/indexEng.htm

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One of the most stylish hotels in Genoa, ideally located on the main street Via XX Settembre, and a few minutes walk from the old centre and other attractions. Rooms are large and luxuriously decorated, service is friendly and efficient. Prices vary but bargains are possible.

Via XX Settembre, 35; Tel: 592 541; www.hotelbristolpalace.com

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