My guidebook to the island of Ischia was expert on church opening hours but not much help in guiding me through the chaos of Naples.

Try my travel tips and you’ll hardly touch the stress-filled, uneven streets of the city. Catch the Alibus from Naples airport to the port (€3.50). Walk to the small quay of Molo Beverello (opposite Castel Nuovo). Board the Volaviamare hydrofoil (€13.50). Purchase bus tickets from any kiosk and stamp as you board. Volaviamare has a ticket office on the quay.

At Ischia Porte catch the 1 or CS bus to Panza (€1.20) and check yourself into Punta Chiarito Hotel (20 min walk from Panza). Scenic Sant’ Angelo and Morenti beach lie nearby.

To reach Morenti’s glowing sands climb the steps to the lofty hotels above Sant’ Angelo. At the top follow the golf buggies down a narrow lane, passing San Michele and Casa Rosa hotels. Head to the far end of the beach where the locals sunbathe. You’ll pass Cava Scura spring, luxury boats, bald rich men and their trophy wives.

There are also plenty of snack bars serving pizza, beer, and bruschetta at reasonable prices. As the sun sets, pick up the Guardian in Sant’ Angelo (€2.80) and return to Punta Chiarito for a four-course feast. Avoid the dog plops in Naples, taxi drivers, mopeds, American tourists in Pompeii and you’ll have a business-class holiday on Ischia. I didn’t visit any churches but still had a fantastic voyage.