Possibly the dirtiest city in Western Europe, Naples is, in spite of this (or maybe because of?), an absolutely fantastic place. To see the best of the city, wander the Centro Storico and the Spaccanapoli, a dense, heaving, noisy hive of life.

Abandoned churches give on to grand, dilapidated squares; buildings lean over narrow alleyways, almost obscuring the light, while down below, eerie, flickering saints and virgins peer out of their alcoves. Totally unique.

Stretching from the Porta Capuana (in the east) to the Piazza Dante (in the west.

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Mount Vesuvius is still one of the most dangerous volcanoes in the world and as such is constantly monitored with a seven day warning system. Assuming that no warning has been issued, it's well worth climbing to the top to peer into the ashen crater and view the Bay of Naples which looks all too vulnerable as it spreads out from the foot of the mountain. Coach trips will take you so far up the ascent, but the last 1000 feet must be done by foot, once you've paid your entry fee of course. Unless you're feeling charitable, it's best to ignore the little man handing out 'walking poles', as they're not of much use and he'll demand a few euros from you when you've come back down.

To get there, it's best to take an organised trip - you can drive there, but there are very limited parking facilities.

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Unlike Pompeii, it's possible to look around the whole of the Herculaneum excavations in one visit. The small town was buried in lava and mud in the same AD79 eruption and rests below the ground level of modern day Ercolano. Highlights include a gymnasium, complete with athletes' swimming pool, bars which still have the recesses from which wine was served and some wonderful mosaics and sculptures.

Corso Resina 6, Ercolano;
tel: 081 739 0963;
To reach the ruins walk straight down the hill from the station for about five minutes, or if driving take the A3 from Naples then the turn-off for Ercolano.

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The castle dates back to the 13th century, but it includes impressive Renaissance additions which make it an imposing sight. It's also worth paying a few euros to have a look inside, where you'll find the Barons Hall, a chapel, a disconcertingly glass-floored room that you can walk on to view original foundations below, and an exhibition of art and artefacts. It also has excellent top-floor views over the bay.

Piazza Municipio;
tel: 081 795 2003

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'Spaccanapoli', the historic centre, is the heart of Naples. Go to Piazza Gusu and pick up a map that shows the locations of the architectural treasures of this area. There are numerous churches, monasteries, palazzos and some great cafés. Whatever you do, don't miss the monastery of Santa Chiara. It's breathtaking. Scarturchio's café has some of the best pastries and coffee in Italy.

Keep your wits about you and you'll be fine.

Piazza Dante underground station. Enter the historic centre through Port'Alba, the city gate behind the statue of Dante.

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Too many people try to cram Pompeii into a couple of hours. Don't even think about spending less than a full day there. The site is huge, and some of the best (and least crowded) villas are outside the city walls.

The Naples to Sorrento train will drop you right outside the main entrance.

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This isn’t the most impressive of buildings from the outside – it looks rather squashed between the current day buildings – but inside it is very gorgeous indeed.

The main part of the cathedral is viewable in the usual way, but there is also an ‘archaeological area’ which you pay to enter, where you can see layers of building from the Greek and Roman periods as well as the middle ages.

The Duomo also contains two phials said to hold the solidified blood of San Gennaro which nevertheless miraculously turns back to liquid twice a year. If it fails to do so then a disaster is imminent.

Via del Duomo 147;
tel: 081 449 097

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