


In Italy, the blackmarket football merchandise is the more frequently available - even outside stadiums! The handiest store is at Piazza Colonna on the left as you walk north on Via del Corso. It is also a ticket office for games in the Stadio Olimpico but make sure to bring your passport for ID.
Pizzas are a speciality but the menu is great. Rossopomodoro is a chain (Maybe think Pizza Express?) around Italy. This one is in Largo di Torre Argentina, west of Piazza Venezia and three blocks south of the Pantheon. Go upstairs after entering the Tardis-like front door to a large, frantically busy local gem.
If Hotel Lodi can't quite make up its mind if it's a good budget hotel (with nice airy private rooms upstairs) or a pretty upmarket hostel (dorm rooms downstairs), one thing's for sure: it's a fantastic option for cheap accommodation in Rome!
It's set a couple of stops on the metro away from the city centre, in a smart suburb near a couple of excellent (and well priced) restaurants. Out back there's a lovely garden (with fruit trees and vines), perfect for lounging around in on warm summer evenings...
But what really makes it special is the people who run it. Fabrizio is a giant of a man, who literally pressgangs his guests into sharing his food and wine (or grappa), and insists on giving them detailed instructions for how to get the best out of his beloved city. Special guy, special place.
Via Oristano, 14
www.hostelbookers.com/hostels/italy/rome/17900/
Out in Trastevere, Porta Portese flea market is exactly what you'd hope for: a noisy, bustling mass of stalls and animated throngs of people.
Held every Sunday morning (and you'd best get there early), you can pick up practically anything there if you're prepared to wrestle with a stallholder over it!
(Out in Trastevere) From Porta Portese gate along Via Portese
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