Benedetto's B&B is just outside Rome's city centre and away from all the chaos and the traffic. The road it's located on is a tranquil, private road.

The room was bright and welcoming, and Benny's also has a small pool on a sunny terrace, a piano and a fireplace.

The owner is friendly and happy to share the apartment with you, and he's full of help and suggestions.

www.bbromaeur.it
Via Adolfo Consolini 32, Rome
Phone +39 06 5033026

Google map: tinyurl.com/ya79gd5

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The most visited attraction in Italy, the grandeur of Rome’s Colosseum seems barely untouched by the endless tourists that come to take its picture, the endless traffic that must begrudgingly detour around it and the endless decay that has come from centuries of pillage and rampage.

As a local, I see the Colosseum almost every day but nothing will take away the strength of my first impression of stumbling across it floodlit at night as I emerged from the Colosseo Metro station. And even if some days I can take it for granted, taking time out to go and appreciate it properly is still something I do on a regular basis.

While the lavish days of gladiator battles may be long gone, the Colosseum still evokes an aura of majesty and if you stand inside and close your eyes, you can still imagine the shouts of the crowds inside as they watched the spectacles of the gladiators fighting wild animals and each other o face death or glory.

Built by captive Jews at the end of the first century for Emperor Vespasian, it was originally called the Flavian Amphitheatre, built on the same wetlands as the Roman Forum, which stands alongside it. Its inauguration was an unforgettable show of lavish display lasting 100 days and involving the deaths of many thousands of gladiators and 5000 wild beats.

The building is oval shaped and stood at four storeys high, its facade made of travertine stone. There are three circular tiers each made up of its distinctive arches, 80 on each tier. The ones along the bottom were the original doorways. Once inside, an estimated 80,000 spectators took their free seats around the arena which was 253 feet by 153 feet, their seating depending on their social position.

The arena was open air, but there was a huge canopy ‘the velarium’ which was extended across on ropes to protect the crowd from the sun. Ceasar had his own royal box, surrounded by his consuls and officials whilst the only women allowed in were the Vestal Virgins and the Empress.

Underneath the arena there were elaborate systems of pulleys and machinery to bring the caged exotic animals such as tigers, hippos, crocodiles, elephants and bears into the arena from the tunnels below to fight their bloody battles for the pleasure of the crowd. One of the most heart-wrenching events was when prisoners sentenced to death were let loose into the arena, and given weapons with which to kill each other.

After the crowd were warmed-up with preliminaries, it was time for the real battles of gladiator combat. These were often fights to the death, but if a gladiator was badly injured, he could appeal to the crowd for mercy. If the crowd felt he had fought well and deserved to live, the crowd gave a ‘thumbs up’ sign. Often gladiators were slaves, prisoners of war or condemned criminals. A successful gladiator could expect riches and a life of privilege.

These barbaric practices were eventually stopped around 3rd century with the advent of Christianity. As the saying goes, “While stands the Colosseum, then Rome shall stand ” but despite earthquakes, plundering (much of its materials were taken to build other monuments in Rome such as St. Peter’s Basilica) and general neglect (at one time it was used as a stone quarry), the building is still remarkably intact.

How to Get There
The easiest way to get there is to take the Metro Line B to Colosseo. Otherwise it’s a short walk or bus ride from Piazza Venezia, passing through the ruins of the Forum down Via , controversially built by Mussolini. Tickets 9 Euros (but also includes access to the Roman Forum and the Palatine Hill and it stays valid for two days.
Buy the Roma pass which is a combined discount card at any ticket booth around the city (23 euros and includes a free 3 day public transport pass and entrance into 2 museums including the Colosseum). Roma pass holders have a special entrance so avoid the queues. Otherwise buy your ticket at the Palatine Hill for shorter waiting times.

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One of Rome’s highlights has to be climbing the Dome. Set off early in the morning on a clear day with a bottle of water and camera and prepare for a view of Rome that cannot be equalled.

The Climb
Arrive in St. Peter’s Square and join the queue which forms at the security check. This queue does move quite quickly even if it seems long. Once through security, follow the path around to the Basilica, and head for the ticket office which is clearly signposted. You can opt to climb the whole way or take the lift which takes you to the first part and the roof area where you will find a small cafe.

Once you have reached this roof area, you then start your journey into the dome proper. Just at the start, there is an opportunity to walk around the base of the dome high inside the basilica, giving you a true sense of its scale when you see the tiny tourists below you.

Start the climb up varying staircases for a total of 330 steps. For the most part you follow spiral staircases, but there are also parts where you walk on a slight incline as the walls lean in forming their dome shape, and also very straight steep parts where there is a rope to help you keep your balance, until finally you emerge breathlessly to the top and the stunning views of Rome that meet you from every side.

Slowly make the 360 degree circle absorbing views of the Vatican gardens, the rear view of the statues that stand above the entrance to the Basilica, St Peter’s Square, Castle St Angelo and the cityscape of church domes, buildings, green spaces and the river that stretch out before you. At peak times it can be hard to look properly due to the sheer volume of people at the top, but don’t be hurried.

Then its time to start the descent down to the ground, to stand in St. Peter’s Square and look up at the top of the Dome to appreciate your hard work.

Hints and Tips:
At busy time, there will be a large queue on your right hand side after you have passed through security and headed round to the Basilica – this is the Dome queue – those passing on the left are going straight into the Basilica which is free to enter. This queue can be quite slow moving, and you are really advised to get here early (around 8.30am) not only to avoid a long wait, but also to enjoy the climb and the views at the top more easily.

Opening times are 8.30 to 4.45
It will cost you €4 to make the climb (or €7 if you use the lift at the start) Get your tickets at the office just next to the Basilica entrance, clearly marked after you have passed through security checks.

As with any visit to the Vatican, cover shoulders and do not arrive in shorts or a mini-skirt. You will not be allowed in. In hot weather, get into the habit of carrying a cardigan with you to put on as you enter churches around the city. apart for the decorum aspect, they can be quite cool inside.

St Peter's Basilica is in the St Peters Square, in the Vatican City. Nearest metro is Ottiviano or take the 64 or 62 bus.

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Taking the tour underneath St Peter’s Basilica within the Vatican City is one that takes you to the very heart of the ancient Rome. The highlight has to be the visit to St Peter’s Tomb, a key symbol of Catholicism. The longstanding belief that St. Peter’s relics lay underneath is the reason that the present day Basilica and its predecessor which was built by Constantine was located here.

Take time to admire the street of mausoleums which is almost perfectly preserved and imagine it open to the elements as ancient Roman families came by to visit their families, often bringing picnics and wine to spend the day in the family vaults. Those that have been excavated reveal intricate mosaics and frescoes which are still brightly coloured even 1700 years later.

Sadly excavations stopped after just a few years as it was feared they could endanger the structure of the immense Basilica which has this area as its foundations so only a small area is revealed and open to the public.

Hints and Tips
As with any Vatican visit, keep shoulders covered and do not turn up in short or a mini skirt. You need comfortable shoes and layers are advised as the temperature underneath the Basilica is quite humid. This is NOT a tour for people with access needs or for those susceptible to claustrophobia. The tour lasts around 75 mins and you cannot take photos or bulky bags with you.

Booking your place:
This tour is not one that you can do spontaneously as you need to book it several weeks ahead. Email or fax your request to the Excavations Office and await your allocated time if a tour is available on your chosen date and in your chosen language. You will then need to pay immediately to confirm your place. Only people aged 15 or over are allowed on the tour and you must book directly as no reservations through agencies are allowed.

Send an email or fax that includes the following information:

The exact number of visitors and names
Language desired for the visit
The dates available during which the Office can arrange the visit (The precise time of the visit will be determined by the Excavations Office).
Contact information (an e-mail address, fax number, or full postal address) so that the Excavations Office may advise you about your visit

Cost: 12 euros per person (January 2010 price)

For more details about the tour, visit www.traveltalesfromrome.com

Excavations Office
Fabbrica di San Pietro
00120 Città del Vaticano

Tel: 0039 0669885318
Email: uff.scavi@fabricsp.va
Fax: 0039 06 698 73017
Nearest Metro - Ottiviano

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