This restaurant can be a bit hard to find but worth the effort. Tiny little place with the tables close to one another. Our waiter was wonderful. He brought the pasta dishes in the pot they were cooked in and sang while he put it on the plate, giving us each a taste of each other's meal. Very reasonably priced for the Pantheon area. Two courses with wine for two people was 55 euros. Reservations are recommended.

Osteria Del Sostegno
www.ilsostegno.it

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Convivio Rome run Italian Cooking Holidays in a little medieval hilltop village called Toffia, which lies, in a magnificent region called Sabina, just north of Rome, in Italy.

I would highly recommend them as my friend and I had a wonderful week and we loved the casual but hugely informative and enjoyable cooking sessions, which were great fun and provided loads of insight into real Italian cooking. We actually got to stay in a little home inside the
ancient walls of Toffia, it was great to feel like one of the locals!

One of the highlights for me was the local olive grove tour as the information provided was interesting and valuable, the tasting delicious, and the whole thing a very welcoming experience.

All in all, they gave us a great balance of cooking, sightseeing, tours and leisure. Thanks go to Guido and Sally who run the holidays, for a great week filled with warmth, personal care, refreshing simplicity and a huge helping of inspiration.

Toffia, region of Sabina, near Rome in Italy.
Phone: ++39 0765 326 144
www.conviviorome.com

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A massive and excellent eatery in central Rome (two minutes off via del Corso), incorporating a posh restaurant, more homely osteria, wine and cookshop and - the highlight for this family - a pizzeria, which on weekends serves a magnificent brunch.

You take a large tin plate, heap it with food from the buffet, and pay by weight (returning as many times as stomach and wallet permit). The kids loved it - as did the many Italian families queuing for tables. Brilliant.

Piazza Augusto Imperatore
T: 063226273
www.gusto.it

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A friend who lives in Rome took us to Alceste, a shudderingly expensive seafood restaurant near the Piazza Navona, recently and the meal was a disaster. In fact it's been ages since we were so thoroughly ripped off.

Though the three of us speak Italian and explained that we wanted to split an assorted antipasto, we were served three full antipasti, which were awful, and charged for all three. The sea bass cooked in salt looked like it had been dropped on the kitchen floor and service was snarly. Best meal of our trip: Trattoria Monti, a superb little place with delicious food, a Roman crowd and charming waiters.

Trattoria Monti, Via San Vito, 13/A, (011 39) 06 446 6573

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Gelateria della Palma is a gelateria near the Trevi fountain (and other locations). There is an amazing variety of flavours, all gorgeously displayed. The chocolate gelato with candied orange peel is reason enough to return to Rome.

Gelateria della Palma, Via della Maddelena.
If you are facing the fountain, Della Palma is about two doors down Via della Maddelena, which goes off to your right.

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The Tartufo Gelato (chocolate truffle): made from 70% cocoa chocolate, darkened with cocoa powder; I imagine this is what eating darkness would feel like.

Piazza Nuvona

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Tre Scalini is a cracking restaurant in Piazza Navona. Famous for one thing really - its scandalously delicious Tartufo Nero. Chocolate desert to die for, I went there on a pilgrimage having sampled the Tartufo at the River Cafe - the real thing takes some beating though, and the rest of the food is light and superbly priced too. Highly recommended for foodies.

Piazza Navona

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This may seem an odd thing to do in Rome, but you can visit here for a pot of English tea and a selection of cakes if the fancy takes you. It’s at the bottom of the Spanish steps and to the left as you face them. The rooms were opened in 1896 by the Babington sisters for homesick English travellers and now days also serves lunch. It’s a little pricey, but fun.

Piazza di Spagna, 23 00187; Tel: +39 06 678 6027

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A tradional bar which serves the best authentic home made tartufo ice cream (chocolate ice cream with chocolate chunks). One is enough for two.

Piazza Navona 28 Phone: 39 066 880 1996 In the middle on the northern side of the piazza.

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Arguably the best pizzeria in the city and always buzzing with more Romans than tourists. Pizzas are huge, light and fluffier than many in Rome. You usually need to leave your name with Marco and then wait for a table. It's always worth the wait.

Vicolo del Bologna in Trastevere

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A Jewish dish of deep-fried artichokes is a must, but no visit would be complete without those Roman staples, Spaghetti alla Carbonara, Bucatini all’Amatriciana and Saltimbocca alla Romana.

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Rome’s rice croquette. Originally conceived as a way to use up leftovers, it consists of a mixture of rice, mozzarella and tomato paste in a crust of deep-fried breadcrumbs. More often found in bars and snack bars than in restaurants. Hard to stop at just one.

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