Out in Trastevere, Porta Portese flea market is exactly what you'd hope for: a noisy, bustling mass of stalls and animated throngs of people.

Held every Sunday morning (and you'd best get there early), you can pick up practically anything there if you're prepared to wrestle with a stallholder over it!

(Out in Trastevere) From Porta Portese gate along Via Portese

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Every morning this gorgeous piazza hosts a food market. I am not going to be able to do it justice. It is full of tomatoes, chillies, fruit, garlic, onions. But not as we know them. The bland unripe unseasonal rubbish that you find on the shelves of British supermarkets bears absolutely no relation to the stuff you can buy (for pennies) in Campo dei Fiori.

For a cheap lunch just come here early, buy a few tomatoes and some foccaccia, stuff them in your bag, and eat them at a Bernini fountain in nearby Navonna while laughing at the fessi (gullible ones) who have paid through the nose to eat tourist junk at the inauthentic cafes.

At Campo dei Fiori of course. Just north of the Jewish ghetto along the east bank of the Tiber

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