Rome is overwhelming. But I have some reservations. Compared with other European cities its facilities for visitors are primitive. The main bus and tram station in front of the central station was a free for all for traffic (this is true of the city as a whole), and the melted tarmac was churned up into waves so that one had to totter across a petrified sea to catch a bus.

The ticket machines for the Metro were generally not working and there were vast queues for the one booth that seemed to be open. Indeed, queueing seemed to be imposed upon all visitors who wished to see any of the city's sights. Moreover, if you had a mobility difficulty, such as being confined to a wheelchair, you could forget a place like the Forum, which required climbing gear to explore it - so steep were the steps. There was litter everywhere.

In contrast Vatican City appeared well cared for and receptive to visitors. I wondered how much of the money made from visitors to Rome was being fed back into the conservation of monuments and improvements in facilities. I visited Rome for the first time in March 2006, and I would be interested to know if more recent visitors have seen progress in these respects.

Rome, Italy, Eternal City.

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Please beware of people trying to overcharge you for taxi fares from the airport. I booked an apartment through the website www.feelhomeinrome.com and they booked me a taxi for 65 Euros. I only found out later, when the taxi didn't turn up for the return journey and I had to hail a cab from one of the main streets, that the official charge is 30 Euros to the inner city. You can also get a bus for eight Euros to termini.

By the way, even though the apartment was good, I wouldn't recommend feelhomeinrome.com as they apply hidden charges for cleaning the apartment and work with a dodgy taxi company that is charging more than double the official fare.

www.feelhomeinrome.com

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If you're new to Rome, and have no idea where to start, I recommend swallowing your pride and getting a ticket for one of the Big Bus Sightseeing Tours. These can be purchased at the main bus terminus in Rome. Once you're on the bus, you'll be taken round ALL of the sights, and you can hop on and off etc. And no, I don't work for this company, and this isn't a marketing ploy; I just found it an invaluable way to plan your attack on this beautiful city.

Main Bus Station - Rome

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Booking directly through Trenitalia's website is easy, and a bargain compared to rail travel in Britain. There are lots of discounts available too, we were able to find Eurostar tickets between Rome and Venice for Eu29. However, the standard first class fare is only Eu74. That is the most you could possibly pay, for a journey that is the equivalent of London to Edinburgh (but is over faster).

For our convenience their website is even in English.

www.trenitalia.com/en/index.html

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In these times of security threats, delays, cancellations and concerns about air travel in general, I can recommend European train travel with great pleasure, having enjoyed a memorable journey from Rome to Berlin this summer - all trains ran on time to the minute and reserved seats were waiting; the view from the window constantly changed as we sped through Tuscany, the Alps, across Austria, along the Elbe river valley and finally to Berlin. We had a pleasant lunch on one journey, chatted to a charming Californian couple on another, but generally watched the world go by while listening to music on an ipod (me) or reading a book (my wife). At the end of each journey, we were relaxed and ready for whatever each new city had in store for us, stopping in Florence, Salzburg, Vienna and Prague on the way. It may cost a little more than charter flights but the rewards are substantial.

Start with a copy of Thomas Cook's European railway timetable and plan your route. Find a independent rail operator - Rail Canterbury (www.rail-canterbury.co.uk) are highly recommended. Create your own ideal journey.

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If you are backpacking or want a cheap room stay at the Yellow Hostel. It has been highly rated and is the best place to stay. With your stay you get a brochure of Rome which identifies all the must-see areas via buses. I did this and it could not be easier. The location of the Hostel is central so you can’t miss it.

Near Trainstation - down the road from there.

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The Leonardo Express train service leaves regularly for Rome’s Termini Station. The journey last less than forty minutes and is the most reasonable and direct means of travelling to the centre of Rome.

www.adr.it

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I´d advise paying on the metro as there´s a fine of 101 euros if you´re caught without a ticket, as we might have been but for a bit of deft dodging involving a map and an "oh it must be that way" demeanour.

www.metroroma.it

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Buy your ticket back to Fiumicino in the main ground-floor part of the station BEFORE going down to Platform 29. There you will be told that you have to pay 11 Euros rather than 9.50.

Termini Station

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Good news! The eccentric Roman validity system for the 1 euro tickets means that they are valid for all trips starting within 75 minutes. If the machine accepts your ticket only 1 minute before expiry, the ticket is confirmed valid on that vehicle or service even if your next leg goes well over the 75 mins. And if you think you are just over the limit, try anyway - many machines run slow.

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