Pizza House is a very cheap diner-style eatery at the north end of via del Corso, about a hundred metres from Piazza del Popolo. It does great stodge as only the Romans can. There is a selection of (mostly excellent) pizza al taglio in the Roman bianca style; lovely traditional suppli (these tomato-flavoured rice balls can't be had in Britain and they're a huge fuss to make for yourself); baked pasta of incredible quality; and wine as cheap as the amazing food. The place is an Atkins-dieter's hell, but since the Romans are all slim and Atkins was a fat bloke with heart disease, I know what I'm having for lunch when I find myself in the Centro Storico.

Via del Corso. North end near del Popolo

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You can find vegetarian restaurants in most European cities. Many, however, are a bit too worthy, rather over macrobiotic, too basic for a good night out. Il Margutta is the place for a classy veggie meal. An imaginative range of dishes and some great art on the walls. The best vegetarian restaurant in Europe? Book ahead.

Il Margutta Ristorante, Via Margutta, 118, 00187 Roma; tel: + 39 06 32650577;
www.ilmargutta.it;
near The Spanish Steps

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Bed and breakfast in Rome. Gianpaolo's (30) - he is previously wine buff, painting restorer. Five minutes from the town centre. metro station very close; wonderful views of the roofs of Rome, can be noisy from traffic and no air con. Good breakfast cooked by GP. Lovely friendly dog Goedel who is kept out of the rooms. Very friendly and will pick up from airport at cheap cost.

metro A. ANAGNINA direction. RE DI ROMA
www.itettidiroma.it/

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Good news! The eccentric Roman validity system for the 1 euro tickets means that they are valid for all trips starting within 75 minutes. If the machine accepts your ticket only 1 minute before expiry, the ticket is confirmed valid on that vehicle or service even if your next leg goes well over the 75 mins. And if you think you are just over the limit, try anyway - many machines run slow.

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Superb restaurant on Via G G Belli in the Prati. Three-course dinner (inc wine) was 40 Euros a head but would easily be double, if not triple, that in London. Best meal I've had this year.

Via G G Belli in the Prati, Rome.

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