- Sardinia
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Italy
In Sardinia, spend a morning wandering around the Bronze Age megalithic ‘nuraghi’ that dot the island. Little is known about the nuragic people or their culture although most archaeologists assume the buildings were used as religious temples, meeting halls, or military strongholds. The best example, dating from somewhere around the twelfth century BC, is Su Nuraxi Barumini. The complex includes the fortress and the village surrounding it. Walk through the village where you can see remains of stone huts and then climb down the narrow stone steps that lead to the fortress to get the real atmosphere. From the inside there are several chambers off the main tower and looking up you can see the blue sky through the dome at the top.
whc.unesco.org/en/list/833
Google map: bit.ly/zl2zM2
Carloforte is a former Genoese enclave on the tiny, remote island of San Pietro, off the main island of Sardinia, surrounded by untouched nature and blue sea. Spend the day on a beach of fine sand at 'La Bobba', swimming in crystalline water. Join one of the small boat-tours of the island, or even better hire your own and go diving. In the evening, smarten up for dinner at 'Al Tonno di Corsa', where the speciality is tuna caught with traditional methods. As an appetizer or late-night snack, eat a simple and delicious 'farinata' a Genoese chickpea flat bread sold by the slice from the pizzeria on Corso Tagliafico, the main, palm-lined avenue (by the tourist office/'Pro Loco') and eaten while promenading. The old town is beautiful, constructed on few hills and made up of small lanes winding up steps in between pastel-coloured houses. And the best is getting there! With few tourists around you'll discover a hidden treasure not even many Sardinians go to.
Fly to Cagliari with BA or easyjet, then hire a car or catch a bus to Calasetta, on the neighbouring island of Sant'Antioco (connected to the mainland by a bridge and also worth exploring) then a ferry to Carloforte.
www.sardegnaturismo.it/en/ (select Carbonia-Iglesias province, then Carloforte for a variety of information)
www.tonnodicorsa.it
Via Marconi, 47
09014 Carloforte, Cagliari, Sardegna
+39781 855106
Google map: bit.ly/p2Ixao
Tarthesh Hotel is a four star boutique hotel in middle-eastern/Sardinian style.
It is located in Guspini and houses just 39 rooms.
Its strong point is given by its beautiful garden, made of green lawn and exotic plants and crossed by streams.
I stayed in the hotel and especially enjoyed its Jacuzzi area!
A great hotel, newly modernised with an amazing pool out the back.
The hotel has been wonderfully appointed, staff are great and very good value for money.
On that side of the island there are some really expensive hotels closer to a beach but this is the perfect place to situate yourself for driving around to sample all the best beaches.
We stayed in three different hotels round Sardinia and this is the only one I'd recommend.
Less than an hour by bus or car from Cagliari and Sardinia's celebrated coastline, the Monti dei Setti Fratelli show a completely different side to this beautiful Mediterranean island.
Lush, forested slopes laced with a network of footpaths afford stunning views over scenes straight out of rainforest documentaries. There are walks and hikes for all abilities, and ample shade prevents the threat of heat exhaustion. A refreshing break from sunbathing.
Monti dei Setti Fratelli National Park, between Cagliari and Muravera in south-eastern Sardinia.
Lu Branu is a family run agritourismo, situated in the Costa Smeralda, in an area of around 150 acres of land. The farm produces its own food and wine, which are all typical of Sardinia.
Located near the town of Arzachena and within driving distance of at least 20 idyllic beaches, I would recommend this agriturismo especially to families with small children.
The owners are extremely friendly and hospitable. Children will love the play park and tennis court, as well as getting to know the animals and birds at the farm. Parents can relax in the laidback, safe, childfriendly environment.
address - Lu Branu, Giuanneddu 07026, Arzachena, olbia-tempio.
www.agriturismo.it/lubranu/enindex.asp
The second biggest island in the Mediterranean, Sardinia is big enough to need a car to see the best. Three hours driving per day will leave you time for archaeology, walking or rock climbing for the adventurous, or just to enjoy excellent food and landscape. The northern half will be sufficient to fill a week. Cheap flights to Alghero arrive late, allowing just enough time to make it to Castelsardo on the north coast. Continue clockwise along the rugged coast pausing at Isola Rossa. Cut inland through the Valle della Luna strewn with giant boulders to Aggius and onwards to the granite coast of Gallura in the north-east of the island. Avoid staying on the Costa Smeralda but have a look at how the other half spend their Euros. Drive south quickly taking advantage of a useful stretch of motorway to Dorgali. A short drive through a mountain tunnel brings you to Cala Gonone, a perfect bay of white limestone. You’ll want to stay here for at least one night the Miramare is the best place to sleep and eat. The trip across the centre of the island can be tedious but Bosa on the west coast makes it all worthwhile. The coast road back to Alghero knocks Highway One into a cocked hat and still leaves you enough time to see the fantastic cliffs of Cabo Caccia before your evening flight.
Independent recommendations, bookings and itineraries from a well-connected team. From villas to hotels, staff to boat hire, tours to restaurant bookings.
Great campsite just north of Alghero old town. It's an easy 20-minute walk along the beach into the city centre/port.
Staff are helpful and the loos and showers are clean and well-maintained (with the added luxury of loo roll!) Oddly, there is a big communal barbecue in the midst of all the showers/loos/sinks etc - looks well-used but I'm not sure about the location!
The campsite has a well-stocked shop, which has fresh bread and pastries every morning, and a bar/pizzeria. There's also direct access onto the beach and a little windsurfing centre which offers lesson and board hire.
We camped here in low season when prices were very reasonable but I think it pretty much doubles in high season, when to be honest it would probably be too crowded (as it's the only campsite in Alghero) to be fun. There's space for camper vans and mobile homes and you can also hire little wooden cabins and breeze-block bungalows (which look very basic but fine).
There are slighly battered outdoor chairs and tables dotted around the campsite, for anyone to use. I suspect that in high season these are the subject of fierce wars of possession but in low season they're fairly easy to find. We preferred setting up our meths stove on the beach and eating there, anyway - definitely recommended.
Wouldn't hesitate to return.
Camping la Mariposa
Via del Lido 22
07041 Alghero (SS)
Tel. +39-079950360
Tel. +39-079950480
FAX +39-079984489
info@lamariposa.it
www.lamariposa.it
Approx 20 minutes bus or taxi from Alghero airport.
This hotel started as a co-operative although it is very professionally run. It is located on the side of the mountain with fantastic views over the valley below from all the rooms and terraces.
This is the place to stay if you enjoy climbing, walking and being close to nature and even in the height of summer the air was refreshingly cool. Many different activities can be organised from the hotel to enjoy the mountain scenery and it is also a good base to visit the town of Nuoro and the murals at Orgosolo.
The restaurant is also very popular, especially at the weekends, and serves pizzas and Sardinian specialities. It's a good place to eat even if you're not staying here, although you would need to book at the weekend.
The rooms are clean and comfortable with wooden furniture and some open directly onto a large balcony. We paid around €75 for a double room including breakfast.
Cooperativa Turistica ENIS, Monte Maccione - 08025 Oliena
www.coopenis.it/
You can see more photos and read my review on my blog here
heatheronhertravels.blogspot.com/2008/09/hotel-with-view-at-monte-maccione-in.html
Orosei is a pleasant small town on the eastern coast of Sardinia and worth a visit for its shady squares, old churches and winding old town alleyways.
In medieval times it was a prosperous port but over the centuries the river silted up and left it marooned 3km from the sea.
You should definitely take a look at the church of Sant'Antonio off Piazza Sant'Antonio. It dates from the 15th century and is set in a courtyard with a square stone Pisan tower and small dwellings where pilgrims and travellers once stayed.
The church interior has been modernised but there are some colourful medieval frescos on the walls which have been preserved and in front of the altar you can see the old painted tiled floor which is a couple of feet below the current floor level.
Chiesa Sant'Antonio, Piazza Sant'Antonio, Orosei
You can see my photos and description of the church on
heatheronhertravels.blogspot.com/2008/10/medieval-frescos-at-orosei-in-sardinia.html
If you're visiting the eastern coast of Sardinia and fancy a change from the crowded beaches of the coast in high season, swimming in river pools is a tranquil alternative.
We found a wonderful cool pool to swim in on the way to the well known gorge of Gola di Gorroppu.
You drive from Dorgali towards Gola di Gorroppu and park the car when the track runs out, then cross the footbridge and walk on the right of the river in the direction of the gorge.
After about 15 minutes, the path forks - the right fork will lead you past a barrier into the national park and on towards the gorge, the left fork leads you downhill towards the river, where you can find big boulders and deep river pools to swim in.
After fighting our way through the crowded beaches in August it made a refreshing change, but sadly we didn't quite make the gorge which is a sight in itself.
On the way back, just short of the Dorgali road, you might like to stop for a drink or meal at the hotel Sant'Elene which serves Sardinian specialities and has a terrace with an amazing view over the valley.
heatheronhertravels.blogspot.com/2008/08/swimming-in-river-pools-in-sardinia.html
The town of Nuoro is in eastern Sardinia's mountainous province of Barbagia.
It's not on the tourist trail but worth visiting for a half day, especially for the Museum of Costume which is small but outstanding. There you find many beautiful traditional costumes and textiles, roomsets showing objects from daily life and spooky sheepskin outfits and masks worn at the local festivals.
Unfortunately the Museo d'Arte is closed on Mondays, when we visited but it houses modern art and sculpture from Sardinia's best known artists. You can get a taste by looking at the outdoor sculptures in Piazza Satta which commemorate the life of local poet Sebasiano Satta.
Stop for a coffee nearby at Caffe Tettamanzi on Corso Garibaldi and admire the mirrored interior painted with cherubs, where struggling local artists would meet in the past.
Wow - probably the best restaurant I've ever eaten at (not just because of the food). Il Pentagono emerged mirage-like on our journey west from Villa Rey. We were starving and so had taken a gamble and followed the crossed fork and spoon signs along and then off the SS125. Totally empty when we arrived, we were soon treated to a feast of local delicacies, including mussel gratin, tasty seabass, fruit fresh from the farm and wine produced on site. Service was exceptional and although we had a plane to catch, it would have been rude to turn down the trolley of homemade liqueurs, wheeled out with the bill. The bill for four (three courses, plus wine, liqueur and an extra bottle of wine to take back) came to an unbelievable 60 euro.
presso Lago Simbirizzi Q.S. Elena (Ca)
Tel: 070 830879
It's a little corner of Cuba in Sardinia! I am a local and love Sardinian cooking, but also love trying new cuisines.
This little spot in the old Marina quarter serves authentic and hearty dishes (rice, meat, fish).
Don't miss a real mojito and the fried bananas!
Via Porcile 17 Cagliari, Phone +39-340-9243996. adjacent via Roma (main thoroughfare opposite Cagliari's harbour).
If you fancy a bit of a change of food while in Alghero then Ko De Kap Sushi and vegetarian cafe is fantastic. The modern decor is great, staff really friendly and food delicious.
It's closed Mondays and limited menu on Tuesday lunchtimes. They also do takeaway. We were really pleased to find it - sure this is a top tip for an area where the range of types of food is a bit limited; especially for veggies.
Via Asfodelo 35, Alghero. It's opposite the marina; you can see the sign if you look across the road and on the other side of a large car park.
www.kodekap.it
Seafood dominates the menu. Lobster is the pricey local delicacy, but there are plenty of other affordable seafood delights that are caught locally and arrive fresh at the restaurants every day, the best being red mullet, shell-fish and squid.
Try bottarga (mullet roe), the Sardinian equivalent of caviar that is grated on top of spaghetti and drizzled with olive oil. Spaghetti con vongole (with clams) and alla marinara (with seafood) are also delicious. Culurgiones are pockets of pasta stuffed with pecorino (cheese made from ewe's milk) and ricotta and served in a tomato and mint sauce. Ravioli al sugo di noce (walnut sauce) comes a close second.
No matter how full you are, there is always room for seadas. This Sardinian dessert is the most delectable envelope of deep-fried pastry, stuffed with ricotta or sour cheese and drizzled with a bittersweet honey and burnt citrus peel. If that sounds too rich, try dolci sardi (Sardinian sweets and biscuits) or visit one of the many crowded gelati bars.
Hire a car and drive the 45km coast road south from Alghero to Bosa.
Around every curve in the road there is a sandy cove or rocky inlet, blue-green water, cliffs and mountains.
It's hard to make any sort of progress along the road, as the water is just too inviting and the clifftop photo opportunities too many.
Bosa itself is an unspoilt town, overlooked by most tourists in favour of the nearby marina and beach. A ruined castle perches on top of a hill, from which cobbled streets and quiet squares tumble down to the river, lined with huge palms and elegant mansions.
Take the SP105 from Alghero.
Alghero's locally produced wines are impressive, and won't set you back any more than £10.
Tanca Farra is a velvety red wine from Sella & Mosca, the island's biggest wine producers who also offer a cellar tour and wine-tasting session.
A cheaper red option is La Bombarde, and two crisp, refreshing white wines that go well with seafood are Aragosta and Vermentino, from the island's north.
The best day trip out from Alghero is a boat-ride to the Grotti di Nettuno (Neptune's Caves), hidden at the base of towering cliffs at the Capo Caccia peninsula.
It's a three-hour round trip taking in great views of Alghero, the local vineyards, the bay of Porto Conte and the distant hills.
The tourist office in Alghero has lists of all the boat trips, or just wander along the waterfront
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