For a lighter meal (on the pocket too) this establishment serves up foccacia - large sandwiches. I think I would have been a bit daunted to enter alone, as it was packed to the rafters. You had to make your order first and then queue to collect it. For just 2.50 you can bag a large square with a variety of fillings, but the Milese house special was sliced fresh tomatoes, a layer of tuna, some hard-boiled eggs chopped into pieces, a few anchovies, a layer of rocket salad, a layer of thinly sliced onions and, last but by no means least, a layer of pancetta. All of these layers are seasoned with a special sauce created by Signora Maria, which is top secret!
Via Garibaldi, 11
Google map: bit.ly/TcFNDB
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Sardinia has a bit of a reputation as a playground for the rich and famous, but don’t let this put you off. Head for Alghero - fly into its airport and it’s only a euro to take the bus into town. It might not be one of the more glamorous spots on Sardinia but it has a delightful old town with well preserved bastions, excellent restaurants specialising in seafood and plenty of places to sit with a cocktail watching the sun go down. There is a working harbour and port and the town is not reliant on tourism, although it does get busy in July and August. An excellent large gently shelving sandy beach stretches the length of the bay, making it an excellent choice for families.
North west coast of Sardinia
Google map: bit.ly/QgnVWe
Castelsardo is a picturesque historic town on the northern coast of Sardinia. Perched on a volcanic headland, the old town, fortified with a castle, is an interesting and enchanting place to visit. After visiting the citadel, explore the neatly packed and atmospheric streets of Castelsardo's medieval quarters. Better still stay over a night or two (any of the B&B's nestled within the castle walls would be ideal - Smorfiosa & Calarina next to the Cathedral was charming), and see the town at its best in the evening when restaurants and cafes set up tables among the stairways and doorways (the pick being La Cisterne Wine Bar - more than just a wine bar with the best food we ate in Sardinia.)
Avoid the usual celeb haunts and head out to the north western coast of Sardinia. We stayed in a gorgeous agriturismo set in the hills of the picturesque and unspoilt town of Bosa. Amazing beaches, beautiful town centre, great food and lovely friendly locals - it is everything you imagine Italy to be right down to the buildings the shades of ice-cream! Heaven!
A lovely restaurant situated on the stunning coastal road that runs from Cagliari to Villasimius. Quirky features, like old bikes decorating the garden, a relaxed atmosphere, and a wide choice of mains, starters and desserts - even five or six vegetarian meals, which was a rarity in the region! The owner made us feel very welcomed, often coming over to chat and even offering to make us up some lunch himself when we turned up out of hours (it shut during the late afternoon). Prices were reasonable, about 10 euros for a main, and the quality far surpassed the other restaurants in the area charging similar prices. We liked it here so much we returned three or four times! I would fully recommend an evening or lunch spent here, sat in the garden looking out to the hills opposite, ideally with their pesto gnocci ordered (which is still the best gnocci I've ever had.)
Cafe Van Gogh, Località Baccu Mandara, 09040 Maracalagonis Cagliari, Italy
+39 070 786082
Google map: bit.ly/MRdcwH
The best meal I've ever eaten was at Agriturismo Tuttusoni. Agriturismos are farms that offer meals and/or accommodation and help farmers diversify and keep going.There was course after course, all fresh and beautifully prepared. We went at the end of the season (late September) and were among the only people there.
Lu Branu is a family run agritourismo, situated in the Costa Smeralda, in an area of around 150 acres of land. The farm produces its own food and wine, which are all typical of Sardinia.
Located near the town of Arzachena and within driving distance of at least 20 idyllic beaches, I would recommend this agriturismo especially to families with small children.
The owners are extremely friendly and hospitable. Children will love the play park and tennis court, as well as getting to know the animals and birds at the farm. Parents can relax in the laidback, safe, childfriendly environment.
address - Lu Branu, Giuanneddu 07026, Arzachena, olbia-tempio.
Wow - probably the best restaurant I've ever eaten at (not just because of the food). Il Pentagono emerged mirage-like on our journey west from Villa Rey. We were starving and so had taken a gamble and followed the crossed fork and spoon signs along and then off the SS125. Totally empty when we arrived, we were soon treated to a feast of local delicacies, including mussel gratin, tasty seabass, fruit fresh from the farm and wine produced on site. Service was exceptional and although we had a plane to catch, it would have been rude to turn down the trolley of homemade liqueurs, wheeled out with the bill. The bill for four (three courses, plus wine, liqueur and an extra bottle of wine to take back) came to an unbelievable 60 euro.
presso Lago Simbirizzi Q.S. Elena (Ca)
Tel: 070 830879
It's a little corner of Cuba in Sardinia! I am a local and love Sardinian cooking, but also love trying new cuisines.
This little spot in the old Marina quarter serves authentic and hearty dishes (rice, meat, fish).
Don't miss a real mojito and the fried bananas!
Via Porcile 17 Cagliari, Phone +39-340-9243996. adjacent via Roma (main thoroughfare opposite Cagliari's harbour).
If you fancy a bit of a change of food while in Alghero then Ko De Kap Sushi and vegetarian cafe is fantastic. The modern decor is great, staff really friendly and food delicious.
It's closed Mondays and limited menu on Tuesday lunchtimes. They also do takeaway. We were really pleased to find it - sure this is a top tip for an area where the range of types of food is a bit limited; especially for veggies.
Via Asfodelo 35, Alghero. It's opposite the marina; you can see the sign if you look across the road and on the other side of a large car park.
Seafood dominates the menu. Lobster is the pricey local delicacy, but there are plenty of other affordable seafood delights that are caught locally and arrive fresh at the restaurants every day, the best being red mullet, shell-fish and squid.
Try bottarga (mullet roe), the Sardinian equivalent of caviar that is grated on top of spaghetti and drizzled with olive oil. Spaghetti con vongole (with clams) and alla marinara (with seafood) are also delicious. Culurgiones are pockets of pasta stuffed with pecorino (cheese made from ewe's milk) and ricotta and served in a tomato and mint sauce. Ravioli al sugo di noce (walnut sauce) comes a close second.
No matter how full you are, there is always room for seadas. This Sardinian dessert is the most delectable envelope of deep-fried pastry, stuffed with ricotta or sour cheese and drizzled with a bittersweet honey and burnt citrus peel. If that sounds too rich, try dolci sardi (Sardinian sweets and biscuits) or visit one of the many crowded gelati bars.
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