Ortygia was by far my favorite place in Sicily: much friendlier than Palermo and much less touristy than Taormina. If fact, it's one of my favorite places ever.

Once again, if you're unfamiliar with driving in Italy, beware: navigating the island is terrifying.

I loved staying at Approdo delle Sirene. The owner is sweet, the location is ideal, and the decor charming (plus you can't beat having your own personal netbook).

You are obligated to visit the Parco Archeologico if you go to Siracusa. I liked it -didn't think it was great - but would have kicked myself if I had missed it.

And as long as you're in the area, check-out the Santuario della Madonna: the contemporary, geometric design was a welcome departure from the multitudes of duomos.

Speaking of duomos, don't miss the Piazza del Duomo and surrounding buildings. I enjoyed perching on the steps and eating my weight in pistachio gelato while people-watching.

If you're in Ortygia on a Saturday, be sure to visit the market in the morning while everything is fresh.

Visit Noto: it's only about a one-hour drive away. Quaint town, interesting architecture.

My big regret was not eating at Il Duomo in Ragusa, approximately two hours from Siracusa. I was just too frazzled from the crazy driving to take on a four-hour adventure. It's the only two Michelin star rated restaurant in Sicily, and obviously the best. I'm truly an idiot for canceling my reservation.

Approdo delle Sirene B&B:
www.apprododellesirene.com/

Parco Archeologico:
www.parcoarcheologico.com/
(the site is under construction)

Il Duomo
www.ristoranteduomo.it/

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First off, if you're driving to Taormina, ensure that your directions to your hotel are spot-on perfect: the twisting hills are confusing. The Michelin Guide directions (online) are extremely detailed.

I liked the Bel Soggiorno: great location and some character. But I hated my room. Book a perimeter room with a balcony/view.

Another tip: be careful of crime. I'm pretty sure that I was targeted while I was there.

The Palazzo San Domenico hotel is an atmospheric place: sneak in and roam the halls at night.

I regret not having visted Castelmola, the village on the cliff overlooking Taormina. I've since heard that there's a phallic-themed bar (Bar Turrisi).

Michelin Guide:
www.michelinguide.com/us/index.html

Hotel Bel Soggiorno:
www.belsoggiorno.com/uk/

Bar Turrisi:
www.barturrisi.com/

My Sicily trip report:
www.travelmusings.net/sicily-2009/

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I love the wonderfully bizarre Atelier Sul Mare art hotel in Castel di Tusa: each room was designed by a different artist. If you're in the area you should spend a half-day in the charming village of Cefalu and climb La Rocca: the view is worth the work.

Atelier Sul Mare: www.ateliersulmare.it/applicazione/index_asm.asp?lang=en

My Sicily trip report: www.travelmusings.net/sicily-2009/

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I hated Palermo. With the exception of the Capuchin Catacombs (just outside of town: a quick bus ride or walk, depending upon where you stay) and the Villa Palagonia.

The Capuchin Catacombs are not for the faint of heart. Fascinating, though.

The Villa Palagonia (aka the Villa of Monsters) is in Bagheria, an easy train ride from Palermo. If you appreciate the bizarre, you'll like PV.

Capuchin Catacombs: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capuchin_catacombs_of_Palermo

Villa Palagonia: www.villapalagonia.it/

My Sicily trip report: www.travelmusings.net/sicily-2009/

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