Ortygia was by far my favorite place in Sicily: much friendlier than Palermo and much less touristy than Taormina. If fact, it's one of my favorite places ever.

Once again, if you're unfamiliar with driving in Italy, beware: navigating the island is terrifying.

I loved staying at Approdo delle Sirene. The owner is sweet, the location is ideal, and the decor charming (plus you can't beat having your own personal netbook).

You are obligated to visit the Parco Archeologico if you go to Siracusa. I liked it -didn't think it was great - but would have kicked myself if I had missed it.

And as long as you're in the area, check-out the Santuario della Madonna: the contemporary, geometric design was a welcome departure from the multitudes of duomos.

Speaking of duomos, don't miss the Piazza del Duomo and surrounding buildings. I enjoyed perching on the steps and eating my weight in pistachio gelato while people-watching.

If you're in Ortygia on a Saturday, be sure to visit the market in the morning while everything is fresh.

Visit Noto: it's only about a one-hour drive away. Quaint town, interesting architecture.

My big regret was not eating at Il Duomo in Ragusa, approximately two hours from Siracusa. I was just too frazzled from the crazy driving to take on a four-hour adventure. It's the only two Michelin star rated restaurant in Sicily, and obviously the best. I'm truly an idiot for canceling my reservation.

Approdo delle Sirene B&B:
www.apprododellesirene.com/

Parco Archeologico:
www.parcoarcheologico.com/
(the site is under construction)

Il Duomo
www.ristoranteduomo.it/

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At the southern most point of Sicily, just under the town of Pachino (famous for its tomatoes) you literally reach the end of the road and the point where two seas meet. The waves of the Ionian Sea crash diagonally into the waves of the Tyrrhenian Sea in spectacular style while visitors endeavour to walk through the middle to the small island. A truly exhilarating battle against nature (at least in September when the sea is almost hot). Afterwards, run into the waves from the sandy beach, then sit back and enjoy watching the next batch of vistors try and make the crossing. Then stop at a trattoria for a local fish speciality with of course some pachino tomatoes.

From Pachino, in the south east corner of Sicily, follow the signs to Isola Dei Currenti (its about another 5km). Park at the end of the road, just a couple of minutes on foot to the beach.

tinyurl.com/nzy75h

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We found this quiet oasis, close to Ognina, that provided us with an ideal base for visiting Siracusa, the surrounding countryside and beaches. We thoroughly enjoyed the large beautiful garden (including a massive swimming pool) and the relaxed atmosphere - much appreciated after a hard day's sightseeing! The family were delightful and the breakfasts excellent.

Via Ognina, 45 - Siracusa
Tel. 0931.794516 (mobile 3394902782)
www.asparano.it
email: info@asparano.it

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Pitch your tent among the pine trees. There’s a restaurant, cafe, disco and shop, but this is a peaceful place close to an ancient theatre and other archeological sites and there’s a vast sandy beach.

0039 922 846023, www.eracleaminoavillage.it

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For a slice of unpolished Sicily, catch the hydrofoil from Trapani to the Egadi, a mini-archipelago off the north-west coast. We stayed on Marettimo, the smallest and most remote. There are walking trails across the island but the real joy is in the simple pleasures — sunning yourself on an empty, rocky beach, ordering a brioche con gelato in La Scaletta, the local ice-cream parlour, watching the fishing boats offload their catch on to wooden trolleys to be sold through the village.

When you arrive at Marettimo’s tiny harbour you’ll be greeted by locals offering rooms in fishermen’s houses. To guarantee a bed for the night — and more space — book into the Residence, the island’s only hotel. May and September are sleepy; in July and August the Italians pile over.

www.marettimoresidence.it

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Okay, I'm going to be totally perverse here by suggesting a place that isn't in Sicily. Vulcano is actually one of the Aeolian Islands just north of Sicily (others include Stromboli and Lipari) and is quite unlike anywhere else I've visited. The name's a bit of a giveaway (Vulcano/volcano geddit), as these islands are all volcanic (and there's Etna on mainland Sicily of course. Vulcano itself has (apparently) Italy's largest 'non submarine' volcanoes, there are little 'fumaroles' spouting steam, the beach has black sand - unbelievable - and there are thermal spas and mud baths. A bit like Iceland with hot weather we reckoned. Stayed at a very nice modern hotel on the Gulf of Ponente.

www.ahotelinitaly.com/hotel-conti-vulcano/

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Sicily has many stunning beaches, but the 7km string of coves that run along the coastline of this nature reserve are particularly special. Grab a map at the information hut in the car park, and make your way along a winding cliff-edge path for 20 minutes and you will come across the first white pebbled beach 20 metres below.

If you can resist the lure of the dazzling crystalline waters a little longer, it is well-worth trudging on another 3km to the next series of bays, which will be less crowded.

A word of warning: it can get painfully hot in July & August, & the path enjoys little shade, so the walk can be torturous without sufficient clothing or litres of water.

There are entrances to the Nature Reserve to the South near Scopello, and in the North at San Vito Lo Capo.

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These hills are beautiful, high, and very little visited. There are some wonderful towns where you can feel the atmosphere and brooding isolation - Castelbuono, Petralia Soprana. The beach at Cefalu is beautiful. Just don't expect to drive at more than 30mph on the hairpins!

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A small coastal medieval town 75km east of Palermo. It is easily accessible by car (1 hour) or a train runs along the coast (1.5 hours). Like most Italian town /cities, the old town has been well preserved and the cobbled, narrow streets, buildings dating back to 12th century and magnificent churches give this little town character. The restuarants are out of this world offering the local wines and regional food. Pizzerias are in abundance. I went in May and the weather was perfect during the day (25 degrees) but a little chilly in the evening. Coming from the northern climes I was able to swim in the sea although no Italians seemed to join in the fun. The summer months are hot. Visits to the Lipari Islands and Mount Etna make wonderful day trips.

www.bestofsicily.com/cefalu.htm

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