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Driving onto the ferry at the port of Palermo in northern Sicily, we headed straight to the top deck and settled down into the deckchairs to take in the late afternoon sun. The sun sank slowly and magnificently into the Mediterranean Sea, its last rays silhouetting the North African coastline as we pulled into port ten hours later at Tunis.
The scene that greeted us in Tunis could not be further from the quiet life of Sicily: the hustle and bustle of street markets lining the pavements, lively malouf music and the smell of burning incense and fragrant spices drifting in through the car windows... this ferry ride to the other side of the Mediterranean might just as well be to the other side of the world!
We turned up at the port at Palermo and bought our tickets on the same day as the boat's departure, though there are only two sailings weekly so it could be safer to book at www.directferries.co.uk
For a fantastically unique and cheap (from €9 one way) ferry hop around Sicily’s beautiful, charming and untouched Aegadian islands you can’t beat the Favignana, Levanzo and Marettimo trio, leaving from the port of Trapani, northwest Sicily.
The round trip is a couple of hours and there are enough ferries to allow you to sample all the islands in a single day, but equally there is accommodation on all the islands if you wish to extend your visit.
The tiny island of Levanzo hosts the cave of the Genoese with its pre-historic paintings. Favignana is known for its butterflies, grottoes, beaches, bays and tuna fishing – and don’t miss the local restaurant speciality of spaghetti and tuna botargo at the La Bettola restaurant in the port. The final island on the route is Marettimo, with its whitewashed, colourfully shuttered homes, ports filled with fishing boats and unbelievably blue water.
"Bellini", the night train from Rome (Termini) to Siracusa, leaves around 9pm, and is loaded onto the ferry across the Straits of Messina very early the next morning (6-ish). You just lie in bed while it's loading, and can then go up and have a coffee on deck and watch the light over the coast of Sicily, although you could just stay in bed and wait for the attendant to bring you the cappuccino or espresso you ordered the night before (at the carriage door, when you get on).
There are four-person couchettes, but there's something really romantic about proper sleepers, and a two person compartment (single bunks with proper sheets, plus complementary toiletries, mineral water, coffee...) - costs just €75 pp. If you want something more luxurious you can have a double bed compartment with ensuite shower etc for €140 pp.
The air conditioned train then follows the coast, through Taormina, and arrives in Siracusa at about 10 am. We love going to bed and waking up 500 miles away, right where we want to be - it's a great way to unwind at the start of a holiday.
Italian night trains are all good value, but the crossing - and the destination - makes this one the best.
The ferry is very convenient, leaving at 8 and arriving at 7. There's a free shuttle to the boat from the port entrance. It has a decent buffet restaurant and bar and the staff are pleasant.
In Sicily there are three big natural areas and other little ones.
The first one in the Etna Park. Mount Etna is not only a volcano - it also has a lot of paths and trekking opportunities. The best ones are the excursions on the summit craters on the south side starting from Rifugio Sapienza in Nicolosi (Catania).
The second park is the Nebrodi Mounts. This is between Messina and Catania. This park is full of forests the most known is the "Bosco di Malabotta". The park is a little less accessible so it's advised to use a four-wheel drive vehicle and take a good map.
The latest park is the park of the Alcantara river. This is a river formed in a lava eruption thousand years ago. The river is walkable.
Etna Park - Nicolosi (Catania)
Nebrodi Park - Between Messina and Catania
Alcantara River - Near Francavilla di Sicilia (Very near to Taormina)
The nearest station for Etna Park is the Circumetnea. From here, a rail road goes around Etna and its villages. You can take it in the Catania central railways station (Piazza della Repubblica) or in the Station of Giarre if you come from Messina by train.
More info here:
www.volcanoetna.com
From Palermo airport to the centre of town, the airport bus leaves every half hour and costs 5 euros. We arrived at the airport at 9pm, and were in our hotel (near the top of Via Roma) by 9:40.
The airport is now also known as Falcone-Borsellino Airport in honor of Giovanni Falcone and Paolo Borsellino, two anti-Mafia magistrates killed in separate bomb attacks.
Palermo airport website: www.gesap.it
We took the train from Rome to Palermo and it was an amazing journey through the south of Italy and across the north coast of Sicily. Highlights included crossing the Messina Straits at 6am after being shunted whilst still on the train onto a ferry and passing by whole neighbourhoods of backyards in the villages of northern Sicily, getting a snapshot of semi-rural life.
On a train from anywhere in mainland Italy!
Is this your business?Search Been there
