

For a more authentic Tuscan experience, go to Siena in winter. With far fewer tourists, you can see the sights without the crowds and although it's quite cold, the days are usually clear and crisp. Typical Tuscan food is more suitable for winter too - ribollita (vegetable and bread soup, far more delicious than it sounds), pici (local pasta, rather like fat spaghetti) and bistecca alla fiorentina will keep you full and warm for hours. The atmosphere before Christmas is magical - the streets are festooned with garlands made from fir trees and oranges while on New Year's Eve, the Piazza del Campo, filled with revellers of all ages, plays host to a free concert with stars from the Italian music scene.
Piazza del Campo, Siena
Google map: bit.ly/iP31vP
Ok, so a trattoria just off the Florence-Siena motorway may not sound like the most picturesque spot for lunch, but don't be deterred. Bar dell'Orso offers up a classic take on the best of Sienese cooking. Take a seat on the terrace with a view of the perfectly preserved medieval walls of Monteriggioni, and feast on an antipasti plate of cured Tuscan hams, followed by homemade pici - a long, square-edged, thick pasta - covered in a tomato and garlic or pecorino and black pepper sauce. Walk off lunch by taking a long leisurely stroll to the nearby Romanesque church of Abbadia a Isola (for directions have a copy of James Lasdun's excellent 'Walking and Eating in Tuscany and Umbria' to hand).
Bar dell'Orso, Via Cassia Nord 23, Monteriggioni
+39(0)577 305074
http://m.bardellorso.com/Home.xml
Google map: bit.ly/ijlimL
The vast majority of the Tuscany region in July gives itself over to free music festivals in either street or theatre and usually from early evening into the early hours. I can recommend Siena as the best location with Feste della Musicale (13 to 17 July) and Siena music week (9 to 16 July ) being the most popular with fantastic ranges of music from Jazz, lyrical, alternative, soul, pop, electronic and visual art to operatic, classical and all things Italian (this is Puccini and Mascagni territory.) A popular thing at most outdoor venues is free mineral water.
Although hotels (albergos) can be expensive look for small family run trattorias - many do bed/breakfast at reasonable rates. The stunning city piazza (square) is a wonder to behold lots of other attractions including lots of Renaissance history, quieter nearby rural locations, the wine regions of San Gimignano and Poggibonsi and above all friendly welcoming people, great food and weather. You can find lots to do all week and everyday is a new adventure. Do not miss it - I wont.
Website: bit.ly/lm93qZ
Google map: bit.ly/mRHTa8
This amazing sculpture garden in a wonderful Tuscan landscape has such a range of sculptures, some are funny, some are deeply moving, and all are interesting. There is also an interesting small restaurant, with really nice food including a set menu of the day. They loan out big white umbrellas on rainy days, which added to the enjoyment. Oh and there are domestic pigs by the car park which we also enjoyed ...
www.danielspoerri.org
Località Giardino, 58038 Seggiano Province of Grosseto, Italy
+39 0564 950 805
Google map: bit.ly/jf0KUx
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