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Get away from the package tourist hordes of Como and Garda to beautiful and little-known Lake Orta with its stunning villas, mysterious island and mythical serpent. If you can, rent an apartment or a villa directly onto the lake – open the back gate and you can head straight in to the cool, clear water for a swim.
Make your way from Milan to Orta Miasino train station, 3k from the centre.
Google map: tinyurl.com/33ky4mb
Monte Amiata offers something beyond stereotypical Tuscany for the discerning visitor. The spectacular summit (1732m) is accessible to most, but it is the slopes of the mountain that hold a special magic. Visit in October and join the locals as they fill their baskets with sweet chestnuts, then take a hike into the forest and, if you’re lucky, you might spot a family of wild boar in search of the same delicacy. At the end of the day you can stop to soak aching muscles in the thermal springs at Bagno san Filippo.
30km SW of Montepulciano
Campeggio Priori is a small camp site and has none of the bells and whistles of the larger sites around Lake Garda. It is a peaceful oasis right in the heart of this lovely town, only five minutes walk from the lake or the cable car, with shops right outside the site's gate. The on-site facilities are excellent, and there is also self-catering accommodation. You can stroll from your tent or campervan through the cobbled, narrow streets and be sitting in a bar by the lake in minutes.
www.campinglagodigarda.it/camping_link.php?url=www.appartement-prioriantonio.it&id=priori
Google map: tinyurl.com/y4nhzu2
Chez les Roset is a beautiful self catering house (sleeps 4) in the stunning and peaceful valley, Valgrisanche. The house is full of charm and character and from the balcony you have a view of mountains and a glacier, as well as Planaval, a picturesque village. Excellent walking in the area and a highlight at the end of the valley is hearing the marmots whistle and spotting the bundles of fur among the rocks on the hillside.
Booking via www.interhome.co.uk, reference IT3035.12.1
Google map: tinyurl.com/y5qumte
A friend and I stayed with Mara and Franco for a week at their farmhouse accommodation - I wish it had been longer! The apartment was clean, typically Tuscan in style, and had all we required for a self-catering holiday. The location was beautiful and perfectly placed for visiting the surrounding area. Mara and Franco were perfect hosts, supplying us with their home grown produce and cooking us a Tuscan delight upon our arrival. The pool was fantastic especially as we had glorious weather. Volterra is a must as is Sienna.
via Podernuovo 7, 56030, Morrona, Pisa. www.agriturismopoderecostantino.it
Google map: tinyurl.com/y4pu23u
Every summer we set off from my family home on Lake Como, for excursions on the pre-Alps surrounding the lake, particularly the branch of Lecco up to Bellagio. Our favourite is the walk to Monte S.Primo, a gentle walk through the woodlands and pastures; eager to race to the top and stop to look at the breathtaking view of the whole lake and Alps. The prize is a family Trattoria where we eat local salame and cheeses, brasato stew, deer and polenta, and drink wines from Valtellina. Beautiful!
+39 031/964695
www.squisitalia.com/locale.php?id=2270
diska.it/rifmartina.asp
Google map: tinyurl.com/y2exssm
Leave the car and use the excellent public transport to the Seiseralm - a fairyland plateau of mountains, water and meadows. Great food, hospitalty and suites at the Lamm. At night listen to the witches lob thunderbolts from mountain to mountain!
Kastelruth, Alto Adige, www.posthotellamm.it
Google map: tinyurl.com/y3urpbu
Stay in Santa Margherita Ligure (which has cheaper accommodation than Portofino itself) and take a scenic boat trip to Portofino. Climb to the top of Castello Brown for the most amazing views of the Marina and bay. Lunch at one of the many open air restaurants on the quay.
The success of Podere Constantino is down to the owners Franco and Mara and their family who made us feel most welcome at their farmhouse. Nothing was too much trouble, from finding a map of the area, supplying more peaches and nectarines than we could eat (which were the best we had ever tasted), bringing us a bottle of local orange liqour and providing us with a three-course meal on the second night. Never had such attention at a holiday rental.
The position of the farmhouse is lovely over looking the Pisan hills with some great sunrises and sunsets down by the pool, where we spent a lot of our time!!
We hope to return next year because the farmhouse gave a good base to see places of interest as well as being pretty secluded. We loved all the local villages and visited San Gimignano and Volterra.
We stayed at this delightul apartment with stunning sea views for two weeks last year and have just booked to go back again in August. This is the 'hidden' part of Italy which is virtually undiscovered by tourists other than Italians. In two weeks we didn't hear another English voice and found all the locals to be more than helpful with our limited attempts at Italian. This coastline is totally unspoilt and it's possible to find little coves without hordes of other people kicking sand in your face. There is an abundance of fish restaurants which serve the fresh catch of the day washed down with lashings of the local Trebbiano white wine and all for less than €20 a head. San Vito Chietino is only 25 minutes from the nearest airport at Pescara and has good bus and rail links if you decide not to hire a car. The apartment is newly restored and perfect for our small family of three to use as a base and the garden with views over the clear blue sea is the perfect setting to relax after a hard day at the beach.
www.ownersdirect.co.uk/italy/IT2137.htm
Google map: tinyurl.com/yf544ag
This is a truly amazing experience in a private villa with swimming pool with the typical Neapolitan touch.
The view is outstanding and the food excellent and we've been treated like part of the family.
Really nice,
www.positano.org/oliviero.html
Google map: tinyurl.com/yk5x2b4
Abruzzo is a really beautiful part of Italy. I was there in September on a painting holiday quite amusingly called 'Painting for the Petrified', with a company called Frui. I'd recommend it if you're wanting holiday with a difference, but I also recommend Abruzzo for those looking to experience authentic Italy.
www.frui.co.uk
020 7241 5006
A converted hilltop farmhouse in Puglia in the heel of Italy. It's an amazingly peaceful and beautiful place where you can go on a yoga retreat. Some of the rooms are in traditional trulli houses, and the food is awesome.
Benedetto's B&B is just outside Rome's city centre and away from all the chaos and the traffic. The road it's located on is a tranquil, private road.
The room was bright and welcoming, and Benny's also has a small pool on a sunny terrace, a piano and a fireplace.
The owner is friendly and happy to share the apartment with you, and he's full of help and suggestions.
www.bbromaeur.it
Via Adolfo Consolini 32, Rome
Phone +39 06 5033026
Google map: tinyurl.com/ya79gd5
The most visited attraction in Italy, the grandeur of Rome’s Colosseum seems barely untouched by the endless tourists that come to take its picture, the endless traffic that must begrudgingly detour around it and the endless decay that has come from centuries of pillage and rampage.
As a local, I see the Colosseum almost every day but nothing will take away the strength of my first impression of stumbling across it floodlit at night as I emerged from the Colosseo Metro station. And even if some days I can take it for granted, taking time out to go and appreciate it properly is still something I do on a regular basis.
While the lavish days of gladiator battles may be long gone, the Colosseum still evokes an aura of majesty and if you stand inside and close your eyes, you can still imagine the shouts of the crowds inside as they watched the spectacles of the gladiators fighting wild animals and each other o face death or glory.
Built by captive Jews at the end of the first century for Emperor Vespasian, it was originally called the Flavian Amphitheatre, built on the same wetlands as the Roman Forum, which stands alongside it. Its inauguration was an unforgettable show of lavish display lasting 100 days and involving the deaths of many thousands of gladiators and 5000 wild beats.
The building is oval shaped and stood at four storeys high, its facade made of travertine stone. There are three circular tiers each made up of its distinctive arches, 80 on each tier. The ones along the bottom were the original doorways. Once inside, an estimated 80,000 spectators took their free seats around the arena which was 253 feet by 153 feet, their seating depending on their social position.
The arena was open air, but there was a huge canopy ‘the velarium’ which was extended across on ropes to protect the crowd from the sun. Ceasar had his own royal box, surrounded by his consuls and officials whilst the only women allowed in were the Vestal Virgins and the Empress.
Underneath the arena there were elaborate systems of pulleys and machinery to bring the caged exotic animals such as tigers, hippos, crocodiles, elephants and bears into the arena from the tunnels below to fight their bloody battles for the pleasure of the crowd. One of the most heart-wrenching events was when prisoners sentenced to death were let loose into the arena, and given weapons with which to kill each other.
After the crowd were warmed-up with preliminaries, it was time for the real battles of gladiator combat. These were often fights to the death, but if a gladiator was badly injured, he could appeal to the crowd for mercy. If the crowd felt he had fought well and deserved to live, the crowd gave a ‘thumbs up’ sign. Often gladiators were slaves, prisoners of war or condemned criminals. A successful gladiator could expect riches and a life of privilege.
These barbaric practices were eventually stopped around 3rd century with the advent of Christianity. As the saying goes, “While stands the Colosseum, then Rome shall stand ” but despite earthquakes, plundering (much of its materials were taken to build other monuments in Rome such as St. Peter’s Basilica) and general neglect (at one time it was used as a stone quarry), the building is still remarkably intact.
How to Get There
The easiest way to get there is to take the Metro Line B to Colosseo. Otherwise it’s a short walk or bus ride from Piazza Venezia, passing through the ruins of the Forum down Via , controversially built by Mussolini. Tickets 9 Euros (but also includes access to the Roman Forum and the Palatine Hill and it stays valid for two days.
Buy the Roma pass which is a combined discount card at any ticket booth around the city (23 euros and includes a free 3 day public transport pass and entrance into 2 museums including the Colosseum). Roma pass holders have a special entrance so avoid the queues. Otherwise buy your ticket at the Palatine Hill for shorter waiting times.
Ortygia was by far my favorite place in Sicily: much friendlier than Palermo and much less touristy than Taormina. If fact, it's one of my favorite places ever.
Once again, if you're unfamiliar with driving in Italy, beware: navigating the island is terrifying.
I loved staying at Approdo delle Sirene. The owner is sweet, the location is ideal, and the decor charming (plus you can't beat having your own personal netbook).
You are obligated to visit the Parco Archeologico if you go to Siracusa. I liked it -didn't think it was great - but would have kicked myself if I had missed it.
And as long as you're in the area, check-out the Santuario della Madonna: the contemporary, geometric design was a welcome departure from the multitudes of duomos.
Speaking of duomos, don't miss the Piazza del Duomo and surrounding buildings. I enjoyed perching on the steps and eating my weight in pistachio gelato while people-watching.
If you're in Ortygia on a Saturday, be sure to visit the market in the morning while everything is fresh.
Visit Noto: it's only about a one-hour drive away. Quaint town, interesting architecture.
My big regret was not eating at Il Duomo in Ragusa, approximately two hours from Siracusa. I was just too frazzled from the crazy driving to take on a four-hour adventure. It's the only two Michelin star rated restaurant in Sicily, and obviously the best. I'm truly an idiot for canceling my reservation.
Approdo delle Sirene B&B:
www.apprododellesirene.com/
Parco Archeologico:
www.parcoarcheologico.com/
(the site is under construction)
Il Duomo
www.ristoranteduomo.it/
First off, if you're driving to Taormina, ensure that your directions to your hotel are spot-on perfect: the twisting hills are confusing. The Michelin Guide directions (online) are extremely detailed.
I liked the Bel Soggiorno: great location and some character. But I hated my room. Book a perimeter room with a balcony/view.
Another tip: be careful of crime. I'm pretty sure that I was targeted while I was there.
The Palazzo San Domenico hotel is an atmospheric place: sneak in and roam the halls at night.
I regret not having visted Castelmola, the village on the cliff overlooking Taormina. I've since heard that there's a phallic-themed bar (Bar Turrisi).
Michelin Guide:
www.michelinguide.com/us/index.html
Hotel Bel Soggiorno:
www.belsoggiorno.com/uk/
Bar Turrisi:
www.barturrisi.com/
My Sicily trip report:
www.travelmusings.net/sicily-2009/
I love the wonderfully bizarre Atelier Sul Mare art hotel in Castel di Tusa: each room was designed by a different artist. If you're in the area you should spend a half-day in the charming village of Cefalu and climb La Rocca: the view is worth the work.
Atelier Sul Mare: www.ateliersulmare.it/applicazione/index_asm.asp?lang=en
My Sicily trip report: www.travelmusings.net/sicily-2009/
I hated Palermo. With the exception of the Capuchin Catacombs (just outside of town: a quick bus ride or walk, depending upon where you stay) and the Villa Palagonia.
The Capuchin Catacombs are not for the faint of heart. Fascinating, though.
The Villa Palagonia (aka the Villa of Monsters) is in Bagheria, an easy train ride from Palermo. If you appreciate the bizarre, you'll like PV.
Capuchin Catacombs: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capuchin_catacombs_of_Palermo
Villa Palagonia: www.villapalagonia.it/
My Sicily trip report: www.travelmusings.net/sicily-2009/
I hated Palermo. With the exception of the Capuchin Catacombs (just outside of town: a quick bus ride or walk, depending upon where you stay) and the Villa Palagonia.
The Capuchin Catacombs are not for the faint of heart. Fascinating, though.
The Villa Palagonia (aka the Villa of Monsters) is in Bagheria, an easy train ride from Palermo. If you appreciate the bizarre, you'll like PV
Capuchin Catacombs: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capuchin_catacombs_of_Palermo
Villa Palagonia: www.villapalagonia.it/
My Sicily trip report: www.travelmusings.net/sicily-2009/
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