- Italy
- (1430)
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Starting in the town of Abbiategrasso (meaning "Have Fat!" i.e. Good Luck!) I ride down the valley of the river Ticino to Pavia, the
wonderful ancient university town south of Milan; there, using one of the few bridges spanning the Ticino, I go west to San Marino
Siccomario before then heading north again, this time riding towards Vigevano. For those who have never been there - Vigevano is famous for its Piazza Ducale (the Duke's Square), a beautiful renaissance ensemble with a lot of cafes in the arcades. This is where I will have a cup of Cappuccino (or a hot chocolate) before heading back to Abbiategrasso. I hope to have burned enough fat during the past four or five hours to be ready for the Boxing Day dinner...
Here's the route on bikemap.net:
www.bikemap.net/route/358624
This must be one of the very best mountain restaurants, high above the Passo Pordoi, in the great, majestic bulk of the Dolomites. Sass Pordoi is a very well visited mountain top restaurant, viewing station, and walking base for many reasons. First off it is convenient, easily accessed off the major pass of Passo Pordoi that connects the main resort centres of the region. Second, the journey up is by cable alone, one of the truly great cable car ascents. Third, you can walk for miles, take in the sun, or simply sit back and marvel at the glorious views. Fourth, you can simply marvel at the glorious views. Fifth, well, you get the idea. And, while you are there, you can enjoy proper mountain food. Hearty, nourishing, and with a healthy side plate of views. Oh, did I mention the views. So, a simple menu. Convenient drive for starters, followed by a great cable ascent for our fishiest course of the day, hearty fare with a side of glorious views for main, views for dessert, and maybe a chance to drink some views as you relax afterwards. Stunning.
www.fassaski.com/en/sasspordoi/index.htm
Google map: tinyurl.com/ycoa5l9
A fairy tale malga (hut for summer pastures) serving delicious rustic fare of fresh eggs and ham from the chickens and pigs who are lucky enough to live in this idyllic spot. There may even be a weekend barbeque if you are lucky. The stupendous peaks of the Croda Rossa tower immediately in front of you and on the slopes of the sheltered col, there is mountain golf, a tree swing and home built trebuchet. Weissbeer or elderflower cordials refresh and sustain you on a walk through a truly astonshing landscape.
Best accessed on the Northern Dolomites walk at the junction of Trails 28, 3 & 4. Alternatively accessed by bus from Brunico - Monguelo - Villabassa or Lago di Braies to the Hotel Ponticello then trails 18 & No.3. If you don't like steep ascents then getting the shuttle bus up to Prato Piazza might be an alternative.
For one thing this close to the Duomo, it's just in the perfect spot and I was so glad to be here. Walking is important to us, and the next thing I like is that they accepted dogs because many places we tried to book did not. And of course he got to walk with us! The staff were friendly and the hotel itself is just absolutely beautiful; we couldn't have asked for better.
Via Dei Servi, 2 - 50122 Firenze
www.niccolinidomepalace.com/
Google map: tinyurl.com/yhgw4ac
Cute little subterranean dining room in Bari's old town, by the market. Scrumptious four course meal plus coffee at a very reasonable price. Heavy bent on seafood, fresh from local waters.
Really liked their riso, patate e cozze (risotto, potato and mussels) -- a signature Bari dish, and a grilled whole baby Octopus! Divine.
Strada Vallisa, 23
bit.ly/90HZ5v
Google map: tinyurl.com/y8c3jtk
Amazing little eatery near the Jewish quarter. Moody chef Francesco Zorzetto turns out amazing hot and cold local seafood delicacies.
Best thing to do is to simply ask for a few of the chef's recommendations -as we did - and you're in for a treat.
Campo San Felice, Cannaregio 3689, just off the Strada Nuova
Venice, Italy
Tel: +39 041 52 28 258
bit.ly/12oRlt
Google map: tinyurl.com/ybbheu8
This is a peninsula far from for the mainland just 2 kilometers trough a handmade pathway in the middle of estuary. The almost-island is an inhabited mountain named Monte Argentario. Porto Santo Stefano is one of the two small tipical fishing village in the area. You can enjoy looking at the sea from the central square place at Porto Santo Stefano, placed in the middle of the bay and also is the center of town. The streets here are steep. All the houses'windows on the hill look at the sea.
You can enjoy a great pizza and specially all the most-freshly seafood just some minutes after the fishing people carriage it from the boats.
You can have a bath in the sea, sunbathing, having a mineral water bath in the nearest(near to Orbetello), hiking on the mountain, walk round the town, go on a leisure boat trip...or just plan a trip to Siena or Firenze, only and hour and a half far from here.
It is like the paradise, you'll enjoy the historic places like the Spanish fortaleza (castles), the seaside walk, the mountain views, the excellent wines and food, the calm and tranquility, and the sea bathing and of course, the nearest to Firenze and Rome.
You should take some of the numerous, almost every 2 hours, trains from Rome, in direction to Milan or Lucca. You should stop down at Orbetello Station and there rent a car or a taxi. In some minutes, just about 10 kilometers far you will be in an almost unknown italian paradise.
This is a peninsula far from for the mainland just 2 kilometers trough a handmade pathway in the middle of estuary. The almost-island is an inhabited mountain named Monte Argentario. Porto Santo Stefano is one of the two small tipical fishing village in the area. You can enjoy looking at the sea from the central square place at Porto Santo Stefano, placed in the middle of the bay and also is the center of town. The streets here are steep. All the houses'windows on the hill look at the sea.
You can enjoy a great pizza and specially all the most-freshly seafood just some minutes after the fishing people carriage it from the boats.
You can have a bath in the sea, sunbathing, having a mineral water bath in the nearest(near to Orbetello), hiking on the mountain, walk round the town, go on a leisure boat trip...or just plan a trip to Siena or Firenze, only and hour and a half far from here.
It is like the paradise, you'll enjoy the historic places like the Spanish fortaleza (castles), the seaside walk, the mountain views, the excellent wines and food, the calm and tranquility, and the sea bathing and of course, the nearest to Firenze and Rome.
You should take some of the numerous, almost every 2 hours, trains from Rome, in direction to Milan or Lucca. You should stop down at Orbetello Station and there rent a car or a taxi. In some minutes, just about 10 kilometers far you will be in an almost unknown italian paradise.
This is a peninsula far from for the mainland just two kilometers through a handmade pathway in the middle of an estuary. The almost-island is an inhabited mountain named Monte Argentario. Porto Santo Stefano is one of the two small typical fishing villages in the area. You can enjoy looking at the sea from the central square at Porto Santo Stefano, placed in the middle of the bay and also the center of town. The streets here are steep. All the houses windows on the hill look at the sea.
You can enjoy a great pizza and especially all the fresh seafood just some minutes after the fishing people carry it from the boats.
You can have a bathe in the sea, sunbathing, having a mineral water bath - the nearest is Orbetello, hiking on the mountain, walk round the town, go on a leisure boat trip ... or just plan a trip to Siena or Firenze, only an hour and a half from here.
It is like paradise, you'll enjoy the historic places like the Spanish fortaleza (castles), the seaside walk, the mountain views, the excellent wines and food, the calm and tranquility, and the sea bathing and of course, the proximity to Firenze and Rome.
You should take some of the numerous, almost every two hours, trains from Rome, in direction to Milan or Lucca. You should stop down at Orbetello Station and there rent a car or a taxi. In some minutes, just about 10 kilometers far you will be in an almost unknown italian paradise.
Google map: tinyurl.com/yczbbqt
This gem of a restaurant is located in a 16th century fortification overlooking the charming lakeside town of Riva Del Garda, and it can be reached via a well lit footpath which gently climbs the Rocchetta mountain.
The Table d'hôte menu is well worth the walk.
I dined there in October 2009 and had an autumn-themed selection which started with a turnip soup with a drizzle of local olive oil, followed by a melt in your mouth morsel of polenta wrapped in a creamy sauce with cheeses and mushrooms.
The starters were followed by homemade egg and rosemary tagliatelle with a rabbit sauce, and by a mushroom risotto.
Then followed an array of main courses accompanied by polenta.
Among the various dishes, I particularly enjoyed the rabbit stew, a local sausage casserole and some tasty snails.
A local red Teroldego wine was served with the meal.
Dessert was a panna cotta with a red gooseberry coulis.
An excellent coffee and a selection of local grappas rounded off an unforgettable meal.
Next time you find yourself in the Lake Garda region, do not miss this!
Via Bastione, Riva Del Garda (TN).
Phone 0039-0464-030017
Google map: tinyurl.com/yj9vs5f
I discovered this company back in 2006 and have since been back three times on their Italian cooking weekends, which are held in their beautiful restored 15th Century palazzo in the wonderful medieval hilltop village of Casperia. Three days of pleasure. From the moment we met on the Friday until we left, it was fun and hands on! I am a single traveller as were most of my fellow guests on my weekend and we all got on famously well. The lessons with Genni, Paula and Franco were just brilliant. The wine and olive oil tasting on the last night with Johnny and Carlo was the icing on the cake - magical. The palazzo and rooms are just wonderful, a perfect comfortable place to relax. Best of all the whole thing is a bit of secret.
The Centro d’Arte Verrocchio occupies a site on the medieval wall of Casole d’Elsa, a high hill village in Tuscany, a short distance from the cities of Siena, San Gimignano, Volterra and Florence. The views over the valley from the terrace, where all meals are taken, are breathtaking. The Centro is the creation of English sculptor Nigel Konstam, who converted it from a traditional but derelict building to the wonderful place it now is. It offers two-week courses from May to October in painting, taught by visiting artists, and sculpture, taught by Nigel. Accommodation on site is comfortable but not luxurious, and the food is excellent. Painters can work in the studio, in the village or in the surrounding olive groves. Sculptors in an indoor studio or, if carving stone, on a terrace shaded by vines. Tuition is in English, but there are visitors from all over the world. The village of Casole, with its ancient buildings and narrow streets, is thriving, unlike many Italian hill villages. There are bars and restaurants, shops and an ice-cream parlour, street fairs, barbecues, free concerts, free film shows al fresco, and dances. Many people return year after year.
www.verrocchio.co.uk
Tel: +44(0)20 8869 1035
Nearest station Poggibonsi
Nearest airport Pisa (the Centre runs a shuttle bus)
This is a beautiful 'rifugio' located high up in the Italian Alps which has changed little since it was first opened in 1878. It is accessed by a short ski path running just off the piste itself. But this characterful restaurant is a little known gem in the area, favoured by experienced Italian skiers and climbers (situated just beneath Mt.Rosa). The cooking is simple, hearty and traditional and the owners are always friendly, plus their wine cellar is excellent. The Rifugio provides rooms which are traditional and unpretentious with wooden cladding, candles and quilts. A really beautiful little secret.
Rifugio Guglielmina, 2880mts up, between Alagna and Gressoney valleys,
www.rifugioguglielmina.com/en/rifugio
Taken from their website:
The refuge is located at the foot of the Monte Rosa south wall. We suggest you to use the Monte Rosa sky lifts starting from Alagna Valsesia up to Passo dei Salati at 2900m. From there you reach the refuge following an easy path (or by skiing during the winter season) in about 15 minutes.
Google map: tinyurl.com/yzby4ej
We had a great time in San Gimignano at L'Antico Pozzo, a truly beautiful place with wonderful Italian hospitality which exceeded our expectations. We found a serene atmosphere with relaxing and welcoming people, just the peaceful break we were looking for in our trip. We also had really pleasant conversation with Ema which gave us an authentic point of view of Tuscan culture and way of life, including special tips on how to find non touristy places and restaurants.
The buffet in the morning was delicious and it was always very hard to leave the cozy terrace while listening to someone practising harp somewhere nearby. We could have stayed there forever.
Our room was perfect - air conditioning and wi-fi worked like a charm.
A lovely hotel that really captures the charm and magic of this timeless village.
We love it!
Via S.Matteo 87, San Gimignano
www.anticopozzo.com
+390577942014
Google map: tinyurl.com/yl3bnre
It's a really nice place in Trastevere, and that's one of the best places to crash anyway. I've always liked it because it's where the locals chill and it's cool to get away from the usual tourist traps. The food in this area is really good and I know lots of Italians eat here too. Plus it's pretty and super easy to walk all over from here and not hassle with buses. Since the neighbourhood is so nice the roofdeck was super sweet to hang out on and bust out the local wine on. We can't get that quality back home and it was a great atmosphere to sample and enjoy that in without paying for a restaurant or bar. Plus the staff were made up of some of the most fantastic people and they were helpful explaining the general area and letting us know where to eat This was definitely a find, and a perfect compliment to a perfect trip.
Via Iacopa de' Settesoli 7 in Trastevere.
www.hotelsanfrancesco.net/
Continuing on my recent trip, after Forte Dei Marmi I went to grand old Florence itself and enjoyed a stellar stay at Palazzo Vecchieti. Old time deluxe service with a butler no less was perfectly coupled with modern comforts and attention to style and design. Decor may not be the selling point in many accommodations, but here it really pops out and grabs you. The cool chic modern vibe is in perfect contrast to the area itself and really enticing to those with an eye for design. Enough about aesthetics, the idea of having butler service is just so unique that it's almost worth experiencing for its own sake. Aside from that the location in the Signoria Square is absolutely ideal and is perfect for anyone making their way about on foot... or anyone who wants to save time on buses and money on taxis. Definitely a great find.
www.italiancollection.com/en/palazzo-vecchietti.html
A link with pics and the address, booked through the same trustworthy company that got me great digs at Forte dei Marmi.
Il Bacaro is an awesome restaurant about five minutes from the Pantheon. Like a lot of places in the area it's not exactly cheap, but it's also not astronomically expensive, and for sure less pretentious than many places in the center. One thing really separates it from the competition; the quality of the food. Prepared fresh daily by skilled, caring personnel, as much love as time and effort go into cooking these fabulous dishes and makes all the difference in taste. Seasonal menus are also a bonus, meaning you only get food REALLY in season at the time. The pumpkin sauce is to die for, the meat delectable, and leaving without dessert may just be a cardinal sin.
www.ilbacaro.com/
They even have a menu on their site. I also have to give props to those who recommended it to me, my apartment rental booking agency, Leisure in Rome. Their English was so good, and they were so helpful and informative, right down to tipping me off about this little gem and others. I'll paste a link to the apartment I stayed in too, a surprisingly quiet place in the heart of Trastevere (lovely) that I absolutely felt at home in: www.leisureinrome.com/_apartments_in_rome-in-trastevere/Trastevere_apartment,S,399.html
Il Negresco is a lovely hotel boasting sea views and much more, as well as cuisine samples. It proved to be true and we ate very well. The view is just magic, and Forte Dei Marmi is sort of the new destination. Where more locals go, learn it, live it, love it!
Lungomare Italico, 82 - 55042 Forte dei Marmi (LU)
www.italiancollection.com/en/hotel-il-negresco-forte-dei-marmi.html
If you have seen “Life Is Beautiful” and enjoyed watching the central character, Guido, attempting to woo his “principessa” then you have been transported to the Tuscan town of Arezzo.
Much of the backdrop for the first half of the film is the Piazza Grande, a large sloping square dominated by the Romanesque facade of the church of Santa Maria, the Palazzo della Fraternita and an arcade designed by Vasari, now occupied by antique shops and restaurants where you can watch fresh pasta being made.
However, if you look a little more closely you will notice a number of display boards dotted around the square, showing stills and dialogue from the film. Roberto Benigni, who scripted, directed and starred in the film, obviously picked his locations with care, and he won the Oscar for Best Foreign Film in 1999.
If you do decide to visit this classic film location you will also have the opportunity to visit one of Italy’s great fresco cycles, Piero della Francesca’s Legend of the True Cross, which adorns the walls of the church of San Francesco.
Eastern Tuscany; Tourist Information in Piazza della Repubblica (www.apt.arezzo.it)
Friuli is not well known, but is unmissable for the wine lovers. It doesn't have an extensive production, but its white wines in particular always score very high in wine reviews.
Try in particular the Collio and the Colli Orientali del Friuli areas: Friulano (formerly known as Tocai Friulano) and Pinot Grigio are excellent whites, and Refosco is a tangy red that goes very well with meats. The very local Verduzzo and (even more local) Ramandolo are a perfect match for almond and nut cakes, or even for the extra mature local Montasio cheese.
You can stay at one of the many "agriturismo" - a good part of them are also wine producers, and you are unlikely to be disappointed with the quality of food.
If you grow tired of wine tasting, there is quite a range of other activities to keep you busy: you can visit historic towns (Udine, Cividale); the Alps are about one hour's drive for skiing in the winter or walking in the summer; you can also try rafting in the Isonzo valley, starting from neighbouring Slovenia, cycling itineraries of different levels, or one of the golf courses in Fagagna (in the countryside), Tarvisio (by the Alps) or Grado (by the sea). Some of the Agriturismo offer horse riding.
The nearest airport is Trieste (served by Ryanair from London Stansted)
Also reachable by train from Venice Marco Polo and Venice Treviso.
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